A diamond bandeau tiara commissioned from Boucheron in 1924, and not seen publicly since, heads Bonhams’ June 11 Exceptional Jewels auction, carrying an estimate of approximately $270,000 to $400,000 (converted from £200,000 to £300,000).
The tiara’s openwork design features scrolls, quatrefoils, and stylized olive leaf motifs graduating in size toward the center pear-shape diamond, a 3.6 ct. old brilliant-cut stone. According to Bonhams, Boucheron received the commission shortly before a family wedding.
“Bonhams’ Exceptional Jewels sale in London features no less than six distinguished and private single-owner collections, with many fine examples of antique, 20th century, and signed jewels,” said Jennifer Tonkin, the auction house’s head of jewelry in the U.K., in a statement.
Lots span the Napoleonic era to the 21st century, and include elaborate diamond pieces, noteworthy colored stones, and jewels from the top maisons.
From the early 20th century, Bonhams is offering a Belle Époque seed pearl and diamond sautoir by Cartier that came from the estate of Dame Nellie Melba (1861–1931), a celebrated Australian opera singer. Estimated at $80,000 to $110,000 (converted from £60,000 to £80,000), the necklace is signed Cartier Paris and features seed pearl linking punctuated by millegrain-set diamond spacers, suspending a pierced circular diamond pendant.
The most historically charged lot may be a diamond jewel bearing a miniature watercolor-on-ivory portrait of Russian emperor Alexander I, believed to have been presented to him as a diplomatic gift during his state visit to England in 1814.
Henry Addington, 1st Viscount Sidmouth—a former prime minister of the U.K.—was involved in arranging the state visit, and the jewel enters Bonhams’ auction from the Sidmouth family. Surrounding the portrait are four principal cushion-cut diamonds of 1.1 to 2.8 cts., along with approximately 18.75 cts. t.w. old brilliant diamonds.
Also in the sale from the Sidmouth family collection: a circa 1870 gold flexible-link bracelet bearing three flowerheads, convertible to a brooch and hair ornaments, set with over 21 cts. diamonds (estimate £15,000–£20,000) and a pair of 19th-century diamond pendent earrings (£10,000–£15,000).
(Photos courtesy of Bonhams)
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