The Ruby Exception

I say it every year: I’m not a ruby fan.
Warm colors rarely pull me in the way blues and greens do, so it takes an exceptional ruby to change my mind.
I also say something to the effect of this every year: Here’s a ruby jewel that makes me like rubies. I probably say it more than once. So either there are a lot of exceptional rubies out there or I might actually like the gem. To be honest, I’m not sure which is truer.
Back when I worked in retail, I first heard an old saying that has stuck with me: Diamonds are for the wife; rubies are for the mistress. Where did that come from? Was it because of ruby’s fiery color, its association with passion, its unapologetic intensity? Regardless, that line has shaped the way I’ve thought about the gem. Ruby has always been the other woman—the scandal, the temptation, the threat. It’s loud when I prefer quiet. Hot when I gravitate toward cool. It demands attention when I find myself far more comfortable blending in.
Maybe ruby intimidates me. Just as a great work of art can stir emotions you weren’t expecting, a deeply saturated ruby can feel almost too powerful. Every so often, however, I come across rubies that don’t overwhelm me, but rather captivate me. Those are the rubies that feel like a revelation.
I often wonder how those born in July feel about their birthstone. Red isn’t a universally flattering or beloved color, and it certainly doesn’t go with everything. But perhaps that’s the point: What makes ruby different is what makes it unforgettable. And when it appears in jewels as extraordinary as the ones featured here, there’s really no arguing with its appeal.



Top: We Clicked ring set in 14k yellow gold with two 0.5 ct. pear-cut rubies, $5,800; Zahn-Z