It seems that Earle’s Dew More moisturizer is causing the bigger commotion because it includes shea butter. It is true that people with oily or acne-prone skin are often advised to avoid it because its dense texture can lead to clogged pores and breakouts. Says Dr. Oska, “This would not be my first choice for a moisturizer for acne-prone patients, given the presence of shea butter.” She does acknowledge that shea butter is packed with fatty acids that support the skin barrier, but says its high stearic and oleic acid content can worsen clogged pores in select users: “Not all acne-prone patients react to shea butter in products, but some do not tolerate it and know that from trial and error.”
Anna Karp, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and assistant clinical professor of dermatology at NYU School of Medicine, says that referring to shea butter just as a comedogenic is an oversimplification. “I think it is about the overall formulation and not the shea butter itself,” she explains. “I know it was thoughtfully put into this product as being noncomedogenic in the overall formulation.”
Dr. Oska also notes this: “Now, formulation does matter, and this formula is well-balanced and barrier-focused,” she says. “In a patient who is dealing with oily skin and closed comedones, I would practice caution.”
Amanda Lam, a cosmetic chemist, says Dew More looks like a nice moisturizer for acne-prone skin; she also says the inclusion of shea butter makes sense here, pointing out that it’s featured in other acne moisturizers on the market. “Shea butter is noncomedogenic, nourishes the skin, and helps to improve the skin barrier,” she says further. “I think because it is so thick, people fear that it will get trapped in the pores or that it is too greasy for acne-prone skin.”
Still, we don’t know the exact amount Reale Actives has added to its product. “If there is a high amount of shea butter, then we can expect this formula to feel more rich and emollient,” Lam says. “But if it is used at a lower-use level, which I am assuming it is in this formula, and paired with lighter emollients, then it will feel very cosmetically elegant and light, with a little bit of cushion.”
When it comes to Reale Actives’ gel cleanser, Pore Power, Kavita Mariwalla, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in West Islip, New York, says it’s a good once-a-day product for moderate-acne patients with oily skin. It contains lipohydroxy acid (LHA) and beta hydroxy acid (BHA), which can help unclog pores, reduce blackheads, and improve overall skin texture, Dr. Karp adds. “However, because this is a cleanser, a wash-off product, the contact time is limited,” she points out. “So while it can support acne management, it’s not going to be as potent as a leave-on exfoliant. I think similar cleansers exist at better price points.”
Another ingredient people online are asking questions about is mandelic acid, an exfoliant found in Go Deep. “For me, I love mandelic acid, but I don’t think of it for acne at all,” says Dr. Mariwalla. “Mandelic acid is really for pigment. Now don’t get me wrong, it is a large molecule alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), which means it is not irritating; but I also don’t think of this as solving active inflammatory acne.” The ingredient can help with post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, she adds, but it likely won’t do anything for an active breakout. For her patients, she’d position the product as a gentle way to reduce brown spots from acne.
