There’s been a lot of talk about the skin barrier over the past several years, so much so that it now has its own holiday. National Skin Barrier Day, observed on March 12, aims to raise awareness about the importance of protecting the skin’s moisture barrier.
To celebrate, it’s a good reminder to practice healthy, barrier-supporting habits. Using gentle, non-irritating products, wearing sunscreen every day and keeping skin properly hydrated are all key steps. You may already know that overly harsh products or over-exfoliating can compromise the barrier, but there are also some sneakier culprits at play. To learn more about the unexpected ways your skin barrier may be getting damaged, we tapped three dermatologists. Ahead, everything you need to know about the skin barrier, the surprising habits that can weaken it and how to repair and protect it going forward.
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What Is the Skin Barrier?
With so much discussion around the skin barrier, it’s worth making sure we’re clear on what it actually is. Much as it sounds, it is “the outermost protective layer of the skin,” says Melville, NY dermatologist Kally Papantoniou, MD. “It seals in moisture while shielding against irritants, allergens and bacteria.” Though this is the simple definition, the term “skin barrier” can actually be widely misunderstood. The “barrier” isn’t technically a barrier in the way you might think of a wall or barricade. Instead, it’s actually “a collection of cells and what is called the natural moisture factor, filaggrin, that comprises this barrier,” says Omaha, Nebraska dermatologist Joel Schlessinger, MD.
As for what a healthy versus unhealthy skin barrier looks like, it’ll be easy to tell just by looking at and feeling your skin. “When the skin barrier is healthy, skin looks smooth and hydrated,” says Dr. Papantoniou. “When it’s damaged, skin becomes dry and inflamed. A healthy barrier is the foundation of good skin-care.” Dr. Joel Schlessinger says that “we know if we have a damaged skin barrier, as skin will feel rough or even develop cracks.” In terms of fixing your skin barrier, “We don’t always have an easy way to fix it, but avoiding harsh environments and chemicals can go a long way to keep it from being harmed,” he adds.
What Are Some Signs Your Skin Barrier Is Damaged?
Realizing your skin barrier is already damaged is the easy part. The part that takes more time and patience is figuring out how it got damaged in the first place. You can think of a damaged skin barrier like peeling paint on a car, says Omaha, Nebraska dermatologist Daniel Schlessinger, MD. “After a while, rust begins to develop, the metal warps and environmental conditions that never would have caused damage before now become an issue.” If you extend that metaphor to your skin, the signs of a damaged skin barrier can range from subtle to hard to ignore. Common early signs of a damaged skin barrier could be “Persistent dryness, itch, flaking or tightness or increased redness or irritation with products you’ve used for years without issue,” says Dr. Daniel Schlessinger. “If your skin stings when you apply moisturizer or suddenly seems reactive, that’s a sign your barrier may be compromised.”
You’ll want to keep a special eye out for a damaged skin barrier if you have inflammatory conditions like eczema or rosacea, as a damaged skin barrier can trigger or worsen those, notes Dr. Daniel Schlessinger. “Infections that may have been minor can turn into something major if the skin barrier remains challenged,” he adds.
What Are Some Unexpected Causes of Skin Barrier Damage?
It’s pretty common knowledge that anything overly harsh can cause damage, but there are lots of less-obvious sources as well, like “over-exfoliating, over-cleansing, very hot showers, environmental stressors, skipping moisturizer and overloading the skin with products,” says Dr. Papantoniou. “To repair the skin barrier, try simplifying your skin-care routine, pausing strong actives and focusing on hydration.” Here are a few more causes you’ll want to minimize:
Hot Water
First up: over-cleansing with hot water. If you cleanse too aggressively and use water that’s too hot, that can strip natural oils, says Dr. Joel Schlessinger. “So stick to lukewarm water and a gentle, pH-balanced cleanser.”
Too Many Actives
Another common mistake is “layering too many actives without buffering,” he adds. Make sure to start slowly with active ingredients like retinol, for example by applying it every other night. You also want to think about alternating actives; for example, use retinol one night and vitamin C the next morning to avoid irritating your skin. If you’re still dealing with irritation, try applying a hydrating serum before the active ingredient to create a moisturizing buffer.
Dry Air
Here’s a surprising culprit: dry indoor air. It “depletes moisture faster than most people realize,” says Dr. Joel Schlessinger, so consider using humidifier in your home and carrying a hydrating face mist with you, like Avène’s Eau Thermale Thermal Spring Water ($15), to spritz throughout the day (bonus: it also acts as a nice pick-me-up if you hit a late afternoon slump).
Chronic Stress
It’s important to consider internal factors, not just topical ones. “Chronic stress elevates cortisol in ways that impair barrier repair,” says Dr. Joel Schlessinger.
Sunburn
As you already know, a sunburn comes with a bevy of skin-care problems, but it turns out you can add a compromised skin barrier to that list. “Avoidance of a sunburn is essential as this will lead to initial damage to the skin barrier and long-term skin issues ranging from thinner skin when older to skin cancer,” says Dr. Joel Schlessinger. To keep your skin protected, apply at least a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher every day. For the face, Ultra Violette’s Future Screen SPF 50 ($40) is a mineral, non-comedogenic option with squalane and vitamin E to soothe and hydrate the skin while protecting it from UV damage. For the body, La Roche-Posay’s Anthelios Mineral SPF 50 Gentle Lotion Sunscreen ($26) is another mineral formula that’s fragrance-free, tested on sensitive skin, water resistant and gentle enough to use on the face as well.
How Does the Skin Barrier Repair Itself?
The skin barrier can repair itself, so don’t panic. However, it can do so “only if the ongoing irritation stops,” says Dr. Papantoniou. “Continued exposure to harsh products or environmental stress can delay recovery.” However, “in more severe cases, or when an underlying condition like eczema is involved, professional guidance may be needed,” says Dr. Daniel Schlessinger.
Depending on the severity of your skin barrier’s damage, it can take just a week or over a month to repair itself. “Mild damage can show improvement within one to two weeks of simplifying your routine and treating it,” says Dr. Joel Schlessinger. “More significant damage can take four to six weeks or longer, which aligns with the skin’s natural renewal cycle.”
To support your skin barrier as it repairs, remember to be patient and “focus on rejuvenating, yet gentle products and avoid the sun and other traumatic skin injuries,” says Dr. Joel Schlessinger. “It can be tempting to reintroduce products before the skin is ready, but keeping things simple and giving the barrier time to rebuild is always the right call.”
In choosing products to help support the skin barrier, you want to “focus on gentle cleansing and deep hydration to help repair,” says Dr. Papantoniou.
Look for skin-supporting ingredients like ceramides, PDRN, antioxidants and more. “Ceramide-rich moisturizers are essential since ceramides are naturally occurring lipids in the skin barrier and replenishing them topically has strong clinical support,” says Dr. Joel Schlessinger, who specifically likes the SkinCeuticals Triple Lipid Restore 2:4:2 ($155). “It is a formula I trust for exactly that, combining ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids to reinforce barrier function.”
Dr. Joel Schlessinger also suggests serums like the Alastin Skincare Restorative Skin Complex with TriHex+ ($258) and the Marini SkinSolutions Reboot PDRN Face Serum ($160), the latter of which harnesses the power of PDRN to aid in skin regeneration and help support skin recovery, he notes.
Gentle cleansing is key as well, and for that, Dr. Joel Schlessinger recommends the SkinMedica HA5 Hydra Collagen Foaming Cleanser ($48) and his own LovelySkin LUXE Clarifying Gel Cleanser ($20), the latter of which is “formulated with afaLUXE, our patented blend of amino-based filaggrin antioxidants that actively supports the skin’s moisture barrier,” he says.
