The marquise cut diamond is a true icon of elegance, offering unparalleled brilliance and a shape that elongates and dazzles. In this expert guide, Afshin Shaddaie—renowned jeweler, author, and jewelry lecturer with over 30 years of experience—shares everything you need to know about this timeless diamond cut.
What is a Marquise Cut Diamond?
A marquise cut diamond is an exquisite type of shape on a diamond, easily recognizable by its elongated, oval shape with pointed ends. Known for its ability to make fingers appear longer and more slender, this cut is celebrated for its brilliance and unique silhouette. The marquise cut’s superior ability to maximize carat weight gives it a larger appearance compared to other diamond shapes, making it a popular choice for those seeking both size and sophistication.
Originating in 18th-century France, the marquise cut was commissioned by King Louis XV to resemble the smile of his mistress, Marquise de Pompadour. This romantic backstory, combined with its timeless beauty, has made the marquise cut a favorite among royalty and modern brides alike.
In recent years, the marquise cut diamond has seen a resurgence in popularity, embraced by couples looking for a vintage-inspired yet contemporary engagement ring. Its unique shape and luxurious appeal ensure it remains a standout choice for anyone seeking a diamond that’s both classic and bold.
Key Features and Appeal of the Marquise Cut
The marquise cut diamond offers a unique combination of elegance and practicality, making it a standout choice for engagement rings. Its elongated shape creates an illusion of greater size, allowing the diamond to appear larger than its actual carat weight. This feature makes the marquise cut particularly appealing to those looking for maximum visual impact without overspending.
One of the most striking aspects of the marquise cut is its versatility. Whether set vertically in a traditional style or horizontally in a modern “east-west” design, the marquise diamond adapts beautifully to various ring settings. Its tapered points also provide a natural frame for accent stones, allowing jewelers to craft intricate and personalized designs.
The “bow-tie effect” is another characteristic feature of the marquise cut, where light creates a bow-tie-shaped reflection at the center of the stone. When properly cut, this effect enhances the diamond’s brilliance, adding depth and visual intrigue. See below.
The marquise shape is ideal for those who appreciate bold, distinctive jewelry that stands out from the crowd. Its dramatic lines and graceful curves make it a statement piece, exuding confidence and sophistication. Paired with its growing popularity in both modern and vintage-inspired designs, the marquise cut remains a top choice for those seeking a diamond that blends tradition with individuality.
Pros and Cons of Marquise Cut Diamonds
Pros: The marquise cut diamond offers several compelling advantages. Its elongated shape maximizes the perceived size of the stone, making it appear larger than diamonds of the same carat weight in other cuts. This feature allows buyers to achieve a bold, impressive look without a proportionally higher cost. Additionally, the marquise cut is highly versatile and works beautifully in various settings, from classic solitaires to intricate halo designs. Its unique silhouette also makes fingers appear longer and slimmer, adding to its appeal for engagement rings. The cut’s brilliance and sparkle, when well-executed, ensure that it catches the light from every angle, making it a striking centerpiece for any ring.
Cons: However, there are some drawbacks to consider with marquise cut diamonds. The pointed ends of the diamond are prone to chipping if not protected by a secure setting, such as well-placed prongs or a bezel. Additionally, the marquise cut can display a “bow-tie effect,” a shadow across the center of the diamond caused by improper light reflection. While this can add character, excessive bow-tie darkness may detract from the stone’s brilliance. Lastly, achieving symmetry in a marquise cut is challenging, and poorly cut stones can appear unbalanced or lack the desired sparkle, emphasizing the importance of careful selection.
Editors Note: It is also important to note that marquise cuts, especially vintage marquise cuts, have been having a massive rise in popularity over the past year.
Tips for Choosing the Perfect Marquise Cut Diamond
- Look for a Balanced Length-to-Width Ratio: A ratio between 1.75 and 2.25 is ideal for a classic marquise shape, though personal preference plays a role.
- Inspect for Symmetry: Ensure both pointed ends align perfectly, as asymmetry can make the diamond appear unbalanced.
- Minimize the Bow-Tie Effect: Check for a marquise diamond with a subtle or minimal bow-tie effect, as an overly dark bow-tie can detract from its beauty.
- Prioritize Secure Settings: Opt for settings like prongs or bezels that protect the pointed ends, reducing the risk of chipping.
- Evaluate the Depth Percentage: Aim for a depth between 58% and 62%, ensuring optimal light performance and brilliance.
- Focus on Color Consistency: For marquise diamonds, color is more noticeable near the pointed tips. Consider a higher color grade (e.g., J or better) to maintain a bright appearance.
- Consider Eye-Clean Clarity: Look for a diamond where inclusions aren’t visible to the naked eye, especially near the center or points. Try your best to avoid anything lower than SI2-Clarity.
- Check Vendor Reviews: Research the jeweler online to confirm their reputation and customer satisfaction.
- Negotiate the Price: Don’t hesitate to bargain with the jeweler to secure a better deal. Learn more about how to negotiate with your jeweler.
- Examine Length and Finger Proportions: Match the diamond’s proportions to the wearer’s hand for the most flattering effect.
Final Thought: To quote Benjamin Khordipour GG, Gemologist of Estate Diamond Jewelry, “The best tip for shopping for a successful marquise diamond is to ensure that you’re comfortable with its shape. If you don’t like the shape of a particular marquise, find another one.”
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Feel free to browse our collection of stunning marquise rings, including Edwardian marquise diamond rings and Art Deco marquise rings.
Marquise Cut vs. Other Diamond Shapes
The marquise cut stands out for its ability to appear larger than its carat weight, making it a top choice for buyers seeking maximum visual impact. Its unique elongated shape and tapered points provide a distinctive elegance, while other diamond cuts often prioritize symmetry or a more traditional silhouette.
| Diamond Shape | Appearance Size | Brilliance/Sparkle | Durability | Symmetry Impact | Best for… |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Marquise | Largest per carat | High (with bow-tie) | Moderate (fragile tips) | High (sensitive to misalignment) | Bold, elegant designs, finger elongation |
| Round | Standard | Highest | High | Very High | Classic, timeless, universal appeal |
| Oval | Slightly larger | High | High | Moderate | Balanced, softer elongated look |
| Cushion | Standard | High (softer sparkle) | High | Moderate | Romantic, vintage-inspired styles |
| Asscher | Smaller | Moderate (step-cut) | High | High | Art Deco and vintage designs |
| Emerald | Smaller | Moderate (step-cut) | High | High | Sophisticated, understated elegance |
| Princess | Medium | High | Moderate (fragile corners) | High | Modern, geometric styles |
How to Spot a High-Quality Marquise Diamond
Identifying a high-quality marquise diamond requires attention to several key details. First, examine the diamond’s symmetry—both pointed ends should align perfectly, and the curves on each side should be identical. Any asymmetry can make the diamond look uneven or visually unbalanced. Additionally, check for a minimal bow-tie effect; while some shadowing in the center is normal, a poorly cut diamond may have an overly dark bow-tie that detracts from its brilliance.
The depth and table percentages are also critical for maximizing sparkle. Look for a depth between 58% and 62% and a table percentage between 53% and 63%. These proportions help ensure the diamond reflects light effectively, enhancing its overall brilliance.
Inspect the clarity carefully, especially near the points, as inclusions can be more visible in these areas. Choose a marquise diamond with inclusions that are not visible to the naked eye (eye-clean). Lastly, ensure the diamond’s color grade complements its setting, as the marquise’s elongated shape can make color differences more noticeable. A G or higher color grade is typically ideal for a bright and stunning appearance. By focusing on these metrics, you can select a marquise diamond that truly shines.
How Much Does a Marquise Diamond Cost?
The cost of a marquise diamond can vary significantly depending on its carat weight, color, and clarity. While the prices listed below provide a general market estimate, it’s important to note that marquise diamonds are experiencing a shortage. This scarcity often drives their actual cost even higher, especially for stones of exceptional quality or unique characteristics.
| Carat Weight | D Color, IF Clarity | J Color, VS2 Clarity |
|---|---|---|
| 1 Carat | $11,100 | $3,600 |
| 2 Carat | $24,800 | $8,100 |
| 3 Carat | $47,900 | $13,300 |
| 4 Carat | $58,900 | $17,000 |
| 5 Carat | $85,800 | $20,400 |
These prices serve as a guideline, but actual costs may vary based on the vendor and additional factors. Always research and compare options before making a purchase to ensure the best value for your investment.
Frequently Asked Questions
- Why do marquise diamonds look larger than other cuts of the same carat weight?
The elongated shape of marquise diamonds maximizes their surface area, making them appear larger than their actual carat weight. This effect gives them a bold, dramatic presence, perfect for anyone wanting a standout ring without paying for extra carats. - What’s the difference between natural and lab-grown marquise diamonds?
While lab-grown marquise diamonds may seem like a cheaper option, they have little to no resale value and lack the unique charm of natural stones. Investing in a natural diamond ensures lasting quality, rarity, and emotional significance—lab-grown diamonds should be avoided at all costs. - Can I find a marquise diamond with colored gemstones or accents?
Yes, marquise diamonds pair beautifully with colored gemstones or diamond accents. Popular options include sapphire or ruby side stones or halo settings that add extra brilliance and personality to the piece. - Do marquise diamonds retain their value?
High-quality natural marquise diamonds generally retain value better than most cuts. However, their resale value depends on factors like color, clarity, and market demand, making them a worthwhile investment compared to lab-grown alternatives. - Is it possible to bargain on the price of a marquise diamond?
Yes, many jewelers are open to negotiations. Don’t hesitate to politely request a better price, especially if you’re buying in-store or purchasing a custom ring. - How does a marquise diamond compare to an oval or pear-shaped diamond?
The marquise has a more dramatic and pointed look compared to the rounded elegance of ovals and the teardrop shape of pears. It’s ideal for those who want a bold and unique ring. - Can marquise diamonds be used in modern or unconventional designs?
Absolutely! Marquise diamonds look stunning in east-west settings, multi-stone rings, or even as unique pendants. Their versatility makes them a favorite for creative designs.
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