Milgrain is a popular design element in jewelry, but most people have no idea what it is. In this article, Benjamin Khordipour explains everything you need to know about milgrain, whether to add it to your jewelry and how to care for it. Benjamin is a world-famous gemologist, author, and lecturer.
What is Milgrain?
Milgrain is a design element in jewelry created by placing tiny metal beads on the edges of a piece. From afar, milgrain creates a stylized jagged effect that gives a different feeling than the typical smooth edges.
In general, milgrain is applied to jewelry to give it a more rustic and vintage feel. Jewelry during the Edwardian and Art Deco eras was renowned for using milgrain.
Milgrain comes from a French word and means “one thousand grains”. Milgrain is sometimes spelled as milgrain or millgrain. Occasionally, it will even be spelled as milgraine. The word’s origin describes what appear to be rows of tiny grains along the edges of many vintage jewelry pieces.
Milgrain is tiny metal beads, sometimes individually applied in rows along the edge of the metal. Most milgrain uses precious metals like gold or platinum, but silver and other metals can also have the same effect.
Milgrain is sometimes applied to all the edges of a piece of jewelry or only small sections. The amount of milgrain used will vary based on the designer, the jewelry piece’s style (and era), and the client’s request.
How Milgrain is Applied to Jewelry
Jewelers will put milgrain into a jewelry piece in several ways.
The traditional method is called knurling and involves using a milgrain wheel. The milgrain wheel has small, serrated rotating wheels set into a handle rolled over the metal edges to produce a grain-like effect.
Another more difficult and time-consuming method is soldering. Soldering requires each tiny grain to be individually attached to the edge.
Genuine vintage engagement rings with milgrain have all been crafted using one of these two methods above, as this was all that was available to jewelry makers 100 years ago.
Since then, however, more advanced tools have been invented to create milgrain on engagement rings, earrings, and other jewelry. Lasers are now the optimum way to create milgrain.
Important Note: Vintage enthusiasts usually insist that the only way to do milgrain correctly is to do it the way the jewelers did in the 1920s.
Pros and Cons of Milgraining a Jewelry Item
Milgrain in jewelry is not for everyone. As mentioned before, some love it, and others hate it. Here are the pros and cons of milgrain in jewelry.
Pros of Milgrain: Milgrain in jewelry adds a touch of vintage elegance and intricate craftsmanship, adding detailing that can make a simple piece feel like a work of art. The tiny bead-like embellishments create a delicate, ornate appearance that enhances the overall design and texture of the jewelry. Milgrain also provides a unique tactile experience that vintage enthusiasts love. Additionally, this technique can highlight the brilliance of gemstones and accentuate the metal’s luster.
Cons of Milgrain: Milgrain detailing can present drawbacks despite its aesthetic charm. Over time, the tiny beads may wear down, especially if the jewelry is worn frequently, leading to a loss of the intricate detail that initially attracted the wearer. This wear can make maintenance challenging. Moreover, the presence of milgrain can complicate the resizing or modification of the jewelry, as the detailed edges require special care to preserve their appearance.
Milgrain Vs Other Decorative Techniques
Here’s a table comparing different decorative techniques (including milgrain) based on price, effort, and impact.
| Price | Effort | Design Impact | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Milgrain | Moderate | High | Elegance and vintage |
| Engraving | Moderate to High | High | Defined patterns and bold appearance |
| Filigree | High | Very High | sparkle, luxurious, and dazzling |
| Pave Setting | Very High | Very High | Sparkle, luxurious, and dazzling |
| Bezel Setting | Moderate | Moderate | Modern and enhances gemstone |
| Channel Setting | High | High | Streamlined and modern |
| Enamel Work | High | High | Colorful, artistic designs, vibrant appearance |
| Hammered Finish | Low to Moderate | Moderate | Rustic, textured, adds uniqueness |
The Historical Significance of Milgrain
Milgrain was first used in Southeast Asian jewelry and remains popular in Indian and Chinese metalwork. The delicacy of Edwardian-era jewelry lent itself to the fine detailing of milgrain. Jewelers during the Edwardian period frequently used milgrain.
During the Art Deco period, jewelers occasionally incorporated milgrain to add intricacy to bold geometric designs. During the Retro and Victorian eras, jewelers used very little milgrain in their jewelry. Because milgrain requires enormous effort, artistry, and technique to create, the jewelry is considered more valuable.
Here’s a chart showing the different jewelry eras and whether milgrain was commonly used.
| Jewelry Era | Features Milgrain |
|---|---|
| Georgian Era (1714-1837) | Occasionally |
| Victorian Era (1837-1901) | Yes |
| Art Nouveau Era (1890-1910) | No |
| Edwardian Era (1901-1915) | Yes |
| Art Deco Era (1920-1939) | Yes |
| Retro Era (1940-1950) | No |
| Mid-Century Era (1950-1970) | Occasionally |
| Modern (1970 – today) | Occasionally |
Caring for Milgrain and Milgrain Fixes
Milgrain is delicate and, therefore, sensitive to pressure and rubbing. After a few years of constant friction, the milgrain will rub away and no longer be noticeable. The best thing you can do is avoid scratching and rubbing against the ring, but it will eventually need milgraining.
If jewelry is worn frequently, like the daily wear demanded of some milgrain engagement rings, the milgrain will need to be restored about once every seven years. While the expense isn’t significant, restoration is integral to routine milgrain maintenance.
Please note that milgraining a piece of jewelry (so long as an expert does it) shouldn’t harm the ring or the integrity of the provenance.
Milgrain on Engagement Rings
Engagement rings, especially vintage or vintage-style ones, commonly have milgrain edges. The milgrain acts as a crown or border to highlight the center diamond (or stone).
Sometimes, only the outer edge of the metal will have milgrain, and other times, all the edges, including the edges of the shoulders, will have milgrain.
Because engagement rings are worn daily, fixing the milgrain will need to happen more regularly than a typical milgrain jewelry item.
Click here to view our collection of milgrain engagement rings.
Examples of Milgrain in Jewelry
We have lots of examples of jewelry that have milgrain inside. Here are a few examples. Click on the links to see zoomed-in examples on the product page.
Famous Jewelers Known for Milgrain Work
Many famous vintage jewelers are famous for using milgrain. Here are some of the more notable examples who used a lot of milgrain in their jewelry from the 1900s to the 1950s: Cartier, Tiffany & Co, Bulgari, Buccellati (although their milgrain was a little different), Van Cleef and Arpels, Graff, and Harry Winston.
Frequently Asked Questions
Does Milgrain Add Value to Jewelry?
Yes. Milgrain requires the jeweler to add detailing to a jewelry item, and so although the worth of the actual item doesn’t
How Expensive is it to Add Milgrain to a Ring?
Milgraining must be done by a professional jeweler, who charges from $100 to $250 to milgrain a ring.
How Long Does Milgrain Last?
Milgrain, even with the best care, will usually last about 5-7 years of constant use. After that, it must be brought back to the jeweler to be milgrained again.
How Much Does a Jewelry Knurling Tool Cost?
A jewelry knurling tool costs about $15 for a cheap one and about $100 for an expensive one. That said, do not use the knurling tool to do milgraining on your jewelry unless you’re an experienced jeweler.
What’s the Difference Between Milgrain and Filigree?
Milgrain and filigree are not the same thing. Milgrain is the grained effect mentioned above. Filigree is openwork metal that has been shouldered or lasered onto a jewelry piece.
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