Radiating with the glamour of the roaring twenties and sophistication of European aristocracy, French cut diamonds appeal to those seeking timeless elegance, subtlety, and authentic beauty in a world of overconsumption and mass production. If you are looking for something more unique with a lot of history behind it, this guide is for you.
Understanding French Cut Diamonds
Often overlooked in favor of more widely known cuts, French cut diamonds don’t receive as much spotlight as they deserve. But that’s what makes them both charming and intriguing at the same time. Let’s first explore some basic information about their origin and characteristics before moving on to the types and shapes.
The Name
While the exact origin of the name “French cut” is not documented, it’s easy to assume it has something to do with France. You might envision a famous French jeweler coming up with the cut during the height of Parisian fashion. However, the story is a bit more nuanced.
The origin of this cut dates far back to the 14th century and its predecessor – the table cut. However, it wasn’t until the 17th century that the cut, in a form closer to what we recognize today, exploded in popularity among European nobility. It was especially appreciated among the French who greatly valued the fine craftsmanship and luxury reflected in this cut. Its revival during the 1920s and the Art Deco period most likely solidified the name, tying it back to France and the place where this cut was loved the most.
The Characteristics
It’s not easy to confuse French-cut diamonds for other gems due to their unique shape and arrangement of facets. They come in square and rectangular shapes and feature fewer, larger facets, unlike the traditional brilliant cuts with many small facets. The crown facets feature a combination of triangular and kite-shaped facets, arranged in a step-like pattern while the pavilion facets are typically triangular.
This unique facet arrangement gives French cuts their characteristic look and a softer, more subtle brilliance. Compared to the classic round brilliant cut’s intense, showstopping brilliance resembling a bone fire, the French cut produces a much more subtle sparkle, reminiscent of a soft candlelight glow.
The Creation
The French cut stemmed from one of the oldest diamond-cutting techniques – the table cut – and evolved into a distinct cut with its own characteristics.
Creating the desired symmetry and the optical effect of French cut diamonds requires skill and precision.
To create this cut, the jeweler grinds the diamond’s natural crystal structure. The goal is to create a flat surface at the top. A table-like surface, as the name suggests. From there, the jeweler carefully creates a specific facet arrangement.
The top of the crystal gets polished down. The remaining natural facets – already on their way to symmetry – get slightly refined. Next, the diamond is shaped into a square and the bottom is cut into four even facets. The precise number and arrangement of these facets are essential to the distinctive look of this cut and its unique interaction with light.
The History of French Cut Diamonds
As mentioned, the French cut evolved from one of the oldest diamond-cutting techniques. This means we’re looking at centuries of history. Let’s start at the beginning.
The 1400s: The Birth of the Table Cut
It’s the 1400s.
Europe is on the brink of the Renaissance – a time of new ideas, innovation, and creativity. During all these changes diamonds are quickly becoming a major symbol of wealth. However, the diamonds of this era aren’t cut like the diamonds we know today. At this point, they’re closer to rough stones than a girl’s best friend.
The creation of a flat table on the top of the stone, known as the table cut, changes everything.
In the centuries that followed, cutters became more daring and started adding more facets to the crown and pavilion. This slow and iterative process laid the foundation for the development of more complex cuts, including the rose cut and, much later, the French cut.
The 17th Century: The Rise of the French Cut
It’s now the 17th century.
Diamonds have gone from rare finds to must-have accessories and symbols of wealth and status. But this doesn’t diminish the European nobility’s desire for them. On the contrary, this increase in demand and popularity only inspires them to seek more unique and exciting diamond cuts.
And just like that, the French cut has become the trend in jewelry, extending beyond diamonds to other precious stones like sapphires, rubies, and emeralds.
The 20th Century: The French Cut in the Spotlight
We move forward a bit more to the 20th century.
The French cut, though somewhat forgotten along the way, is now ready to make a comeback. And during the 1920s, it does just that – it reclaims its place in the spotlight.
This revival has everything to do with Art Deco, a movement in the decorative arts and architecture that’s in vogue at this time. Visual characteristics of Art Deco, such as clean lines, sharp angles, and geometric forms, resonate perfectly with the French cut’s distinctive looks.
The History Continues: The French Cut Today
Fast forward to today.
Traditional French cut diamonds are now rare. You’ll only find a few variations still being made, and most of them have modern twists.
And yet, French cut diamonds are becoming popular once again. You’ll notice them in more engagement rings and eternity bands. This cut looks gorgeous with diamonds, emeralds, and sapphires. You can set it vertically or horizontally in platinum, gold, or rose gold. It’s simply too versatile – and beautiful – to be left in the past.
However, this doesn’t mean the French cut is at the peak of its popularity. You will rarely find it in those popular celebrity ring roundups. But this makes French cut diamonds even more special. Not everyone has them.
A few stars have recognized this beautiful cut for what it is, though. Justin Timberlake proposed to Jessica Biel with a six-carat beauty with French cut side diamonds. Maroon 5’s Adam Levine was next. His fiancée Behati Prinsloo also received a stunning engagement ring with French cut side stones. A true nod to the Art Deco era.
The French cut also stayed popular in the aristocratic circles. Lady Kitty Spencer, the late Princess Diana’s niece, is a testament to this. She sported a dazzling platinum engagement ring with the French cut. Though, in her case, they were not French cut diamonds but rubies.
French Cut Diamonds Today: Types and Shapes You Can Find
French cut diamonds have changed over centuries. That’s why they come in different shapes and styles today. Let’s start with the shapes.
The Different Shapes of French Cut Diamonds
The core characteristics of French cut diamonds always stay the same. However, the shape of the table doesn’t. Here are the three most common shapes of French cut diamonds.
The Square
The square table is the most common shape you’ll come across. It’s what most people picture when they hear “French cut.” As you can probably guess, the table looks square from above. Now, let’s be honest, there’s nothing particularly exciting about a square. The excitement comes from the corner facets. Together, these resemble a four-pointed star, and that’s where the magic happens.
The Rectangle
The rectangular-shaped French cut bids symmetry “au revoir.” Thanks to the rectangular table, the entire diamond looks longer and slimmer. As a bonus, its edges can sometimes be slightly uneven. Plus, the cut has a slight tilt. Individually, these changes don’t mean much but together, they add just enough unpredictability to shake things up. This makes the rectangle table great for those who like more unusual designs.
The Octagon
An octagonal table has eight sides, but this isn’t the only interesting part about this shape. The corner facets are also more playful. They don’t stop at their usual point. Instead, they branch out in more directions. As a result, the diamond has more surfaces that can catch the light.
The Different Types of French Cut Diamonds
The humble beginnings. The peak popularity. The total obscurity. French cut diamonds have experienced it all. That’s why you can now find them in four unique types. And none of these are your typical “buy off the shelf” options.
Antique French Cut Diamonds
Few jewelers work with French cut diamonds today. So, instead of looking at the present, you should try your luck in the past.
Antique French cut diamonds – from the Art Deco era or earlier – show the amazing craftsmanship of the past. These diamonds aren’t perfect. Quite the contrary. They’re often uneven and jagged due to how simple the cutting tools were back then. But this is what makes them so fascinating. Wearing them is like owning a piece of history.
Recycled French Cut Diamonds
Most French cut diamonds today are recycled. This means they’re made from already cut stones – usually baguettes and princess cuts.
At first, these look like the real thing, as they have that distinct shape but their optical properties can differ, as cutting of processed gems won’t achieve the same reflection and elegance. If you’re familiar with the traditional French cut, you can easily spot recycled cuts. They have a deep table preserved from the previously polished gems. The upper bevels are shallower and unable to reflect light as well as they would on the traditional French cut.
However, if you like the distinctive shape of a French cut diamond, recycled gems are a great option. They will certainly cost you less than the real deal.
Per-Order French Cut Diamonds
Say you want a new French cut diamond. And not just any diamond – the real thing. If so, your best option is to have one cut just for you.
Per-order French cut diamonds are made from scratch, following the exact proportions and geometry of the original cut. The jeweler cuts them traditionally in every way. Everything – down to the angles – has to be right.
Unsurprisingly, this is a time-consuming process. However, it’s the only way to guarantee the quality and authenticity of your French cut diamond.
French Cut Side Diamonds
Not everyone is searching for a large French cut centerpiece. Many appreciate the subtle geometric sparkle of French cuts as accents in engagement rings, eternity bands, and other jewelry.
While platinum settings and pairings with larger center stones are common choices, French cut side diamonds can also be beautifully incorporated into gold and rose gold alongside a range of gemstones. And while these diamonds might be smaller, their impact certainly isn’t.
Why Choose French Cut Diamonds?
French cut diamonds may require a bit more research and investment but their unique beauty and character make them well worth it. Here’s why French cut is worth your time, effort, and money.
Simplicity
True beauty often lies in simplicity, and French cut diamonds are a great example of this principle. They exude elegance, clarity, and an innate sense of balance. They’re just like French fashion – simple and sleek, yet incredibly sophisticated.
A Distinctive Look
Diamonds have recently become a little more… generic. You either have the blinding sparkle of a princess cut or the subtle shimmer of a step cut. French cut diamonds strike a balance. Their unique faceting creates a chunky light return that feels both old-fashioned and contemporary at the same time. Additionally, French cut diamonds often appear larger than other diamond cuts of the same carat weight due to their large surface area.
Unique Optical Play of Light
French cut diamonds don’t just sparkle. They are mini-illusionists. Their facets bounce and scatter light unpredictably, especially when you place several diamonds together. As you move, the reflection does, too.
A Masterpiece of Craftsmanship
These days, it’s all about getting things done fast. Fast fashion, mass production, and rapidly changing trends. Not every jeweler can create French cut diamonds, as they will require specialized skill and meticulous attention to detail. You won’t find these diamonds on an assembly line. They are works of art and a testament to the enduring value of craftsmanship.
A Piece of History, Reimagined
Owning an antique French cut diamond is like holding a piece of history – one that connects old-world craftsmanship and timeless elegance.
A Rare Find
High-quality French cut diamonds are harder to source. They are not so widely produced due to a few facts – they are not as popular as the round brilliant cut diamonds, which account for over 70% of diamonds sold globally, not all rough diamond crystals are ideally suited for the French cut, and, as mentioned before, not all jewelers have the necessary skills needed to produce them. Now, you can see this as a downside, as it will take you more time to find one. However, their rarity should also excite you. Occasions like weddings and engagements deserve diamonds that can’t be found in just any jewelry store.
How Do French Cut Diamonds Compare to Other Cuts?
French cut diamonds are so unique that they only ever get compared to one cut – the princess cut. Here’s an overview of their similarities and differences.
French Cut vs. Princes Cut: The Comparison
Where to Find French Cut Diamonds
French cut diamonds might be rare due to the specialized cutting skills needed to produce them and the niche market interested in them, but they aren’t impossible to find. Here’s where to look.
Specialized Jewelry Stores
Say you’re looking for a traditional French cut diamond – one from the Art Deco era. If so, specialized jewelry stores are your best option. High-end antique jewelry shops are likely to have these gems.
Auctions and Certified Online Sellers
Thanks to the internet, finding French cut diamonds is much easier. Online auctions and trusted sellers are great places to start. Just be sure to buy from those who provide proper documentation.
Gem Cutters
A gem cutter is the way to go if you want a truly custom French cut. They’ll create a diamond based on your exact preferences – from the table shape to the crown height. Some U.S.-based gem cutters even offer this service online.
Online Marketplaces
Platforms like eBay and Amazon offer a variety of recycled French cut diamonds. This makes them great for buyers on a budget.
How to Care for French Cut Diamonds
To keep your French cut diamond jewelry looking its best, follow these care tips.
Contact an Expert on French Cut Diamonds
Looking for French cut diamonds? Our experts at Estate Diamond Jewelry can guide you through the selection process and help you explore exquisite pieces like the Chadwell Ring and the French cut Diamond Wedding Band.
Contact us today – we’d love to assist you.
