It’s not every day that two independent jewelry designers join forces on a one-of-a-kind collection, especially when an ocean and continent separate them. But Polly Wales, based in Los Angeles, and Castro Smith, based in London, did just that.
Wales, with her perfectly imperfect cast-not-set approach, and Smith, whose signature hand-engraving is defined by precision and control, seem an unlikely pair. Yet through a yearlong exchange of texts and voice notes, plus video calls and, whenever possible, in-person meetings, the duo blended their distinct creative languages into a cohesive—and extraordinary—fine jewelry collection.
“We wanted to keep it as open as possible and allow whatever happened to evolve as freely as possible, allowing each other full creative freedom,” Wales said of her collaboration with Smith, in an interview provided by her brand. “I think we both trusted each other creatively, which made it very easy to be open and playful.”
That trust allowed their differing artistic approaches to work in striking harmony. The collection illustrates a graceful dance between the two designers’ aesthetics: Wales’ gemstones appear to melt into their golden canvases, while spaces are reserved for Smith’s point of view, etched with creatures and other motifs from nature: ants, birds, snakes, waves, blossoms, and more.
The artists’ mutual trust also created opportunities for surprise. In the case of the Slither ring pictured below, Wales set the sapphires first, leaving Smith to interpret the piece through his own lens.
“The sapphires turning into eggs being eaten by Castro’s snakes is a favorite—I never saw that coming!” Wales said.
Smith hopes people feel “like a pretty alien” when wearing the pieces—an apt description for jewels that exist in a world entirely their own.
“I think we are big fans of each other, not only the both of us but both our teams,” said Smith in a statement. “Polly and her team have always been a lovely little lighthouse guide into this industry—and we all need that as a jewelry community.”
The Polly Wales x Castro Smith jewelry is a testament to the beauty of experimentation. Because both artists work by hand, there is an inherent unpredictability to the process; neither can be entirely certain where the next movement will lead. That creative journey—which Smith has likened to a mushroom trip—resulted in a series of one-of-a-kind jewels that can never be replicated exactly, making each a true treasure.
Response to the collection has been enthusiastic. Eight of the 16 pieces that debuted online debut on June 5 sold within the first 20 minutes. Wales and Smith said they’ve also received positive feedback from retailers, collectors, and even fellow jewelers and artists, many of whom are likely taking notes on a collaboration done right.
And this may only be the beginning of the partnership. “I think this is the first chapter, the first fold,” said Wales.
Top, from top, all in 18k yellow gold: Cross Seas Sprinkle ring with cognac diamonds, $11,615 (sold); the Gatherers Rainbow Sprinkle ring with rainbow sapphires, $11,495 (sold); Cross Seas Blossom Crush Sprinkle ring with rainbow sapphires, $11,615 (sold); the Gatherers Wide Green Sprinkle ring with blue and green sapphires, $17,505; Polly Wales x Castro Smith
