Sunscreen, sunscreen, SPF: The sun protection skin care has been celebrated by Derms for ages as a holy grail in skin care. The reason? The sun is a strong skin devices, produces wrinkles, damages the skin and increases hyperpigmentation. Experts teach or reduce these effects by using, teaching or reducing sunscreen every day. Recently, social media have recently been concerned about SPF’s concern. Some call sunscreen or claim, formulations include poisonous chemicals. We spoke to dermatologists about the greatest claims about sun protection protection.
Meet the experts: Dr. Taryn Jacobs is a specialist dermatologist in the Life Eugene Marais Hospital in Pretoria. Dr. Bradley Wagemaker is a medical director at Lamelle Research Laboratories. Dr. Alek Nikolic is an aesthetic doctor and founder of Skincare Online Store Skin Miles and Skincare Brand Sk.in.
Is sunscreen full of poisonous chemicals?
The claim that sunscreen is poisonous for human health is repeated by the environmental work group (EEC), an interest group for environmental health. According to their research, frequent ingredients in sunscreens such as oxybenzon, homosalate, octisalate, octocrylas, avobenzone and octinoxate can be absorbed by the skin with a higher than safe level and make health concerns. The main problem of ingredients are oxybenzon and octinoxate that have associated studies with endocrine (hormonal) disorders.
All three experts we spoke to agreed: there is only no evidence of this idea. Oxybenzone attracts the most concern, but experts determine the lack of conclusive evidence. “These concerns come from studies that were carried out on cells in the laboratory and on animals that were fed large doses of Oxybenzon. However, the quantities used in these experiments were significantly higher than the people who are exposed to their skin when using sunscreen,” explains Dr. Taryn Jacobs, a specialist dermatologist. “According to a study from 2017 in the journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, a single 277 years of sunscreen would be used to achieve the equivalent systemic dose that produced effects in these rat studies,” says Dr. Alek Nikolic, an aesthetic doctor.
And, says Dr. Jacobs are at best thin studies on chemical absorption on the skin. “The relevance of this absorption is uncertain,” she says. “It is important to recognize that these two studies carried out by the FDA do not provide any evidence that chemical sunscreen harm. In other words, just because something is there does not mean that it causes damage.”
Read more: Should you wear sunscreen every day?
Does sunscreen blocks the vitamin -D production?
Well … this question is more of a cost-benefit dilemma. On the one hand, “the risks of sun damage and skin cancer largely outweigh the minimal effects on vitamin D,” says Dr. Bradley Wagemaker, medical director at Lamelle Research Laboratories. Nevertheless, sunscreen can block UVB rays that are responsible for producing vitamin D, explains Dr. Jacobs.
But! What is true in a laboratory is simply not true in real life. “Although various studies have come to the conclusion that there is a theoretical risk of sunscreen that reduces vitamin D levels, the data currently shows no correlation in the settings in real life,” explains Dr. Jacobs. “In fact, several studies have shown that sunscreen is rarely used correctly in the correct doses and with reasonable frequency. This means that the vitamin D synthesis under real conditions due to the inappropriate use of sunscreen in sun protection users is not completely inhibited.”
Conclusion: You are better off to get your D from food or nutritional supplements than to expose yourself to the sun without SPF.
If skin cancer is on the rise, does this mean that sunscreen does not work?
After the National Cancer Registry 2023, the basal cell carcinoma (BCC) and squamous epithelial carcinoma (SCC) make up the top three and four types of cancer in South Africa. Both BCC and SCC are skin cancer. And from 2010 to 2017, the incidence rates for melanoma in white South Africans have increased significantly, with 13.6% increasing in women.
Is sunscreen responsible for rising skin cancer rates? Experts do not agree. “Studies show that the regular daily use of SPF 15 sunscreens if they are used as stated, their risk of developing squamous epithelial carcinoma (SCC) by around 40 percent and their risk of melanoma can reduce 50 percent,” says Dr. Nikolic. It relies on the rising rates on higher UV values, longer lifespan and improved cancer detection.
Another big cancer? People. “Part of the problem is that people sometimes use sunscreen as permission to spend excessively long periods of time in the sun or tan. In addition, they cannot appear again and do not use other sun protection methods such as hats or clothing,” explains Dr. Jacobs. “This gives some a wrong feeling of security.”
According to South African Medical Journal among White South Africans, there is a lack of self -fright. A South African family practice study shows that only half of the white respondents regularly use sunscreen. This number is lower among the black and Indian respondents. The study states: “Less than 20% of the white respondents had ever checked their skin for suspicious birthmarks. Most black patients were not aware that they were exposed to a risk of skin cancer, and only 10% were aware of the risk of developing skin cancer in acrals and nails.”
Read more: 6 things that neurologists would never do if they wanted to protect their brain health
Is sunscreen only partially effective?
As you may have suspected based on the above answers, the way the average person uses sunscreen means reduces its effectiveness. And according to this study from 2012, in which the effectiveness of sunscreen against deeper types of sun damage (such as skin cancer) was tested, no sunscreen prevents completely deep sun damage. The authors theorized that this is because UVA filters (in sunscreen) can collapse over time and that sunscreen cannot protect well enough from visible light. Since then, this study has suggested further research that show the original results. “No sun protection can block 100% of the UV rays,” says Dr. Nikolic. “In addition, the effectiveness of sunscreens can be reduced by factors such as incorrect use, insufficient re -evaluation and not used again after welding and/or water exposure.”
But before you have left your SPF and removed your skin from the sun, you know that “broadband-Sff is still our best defense,” says Dr. Wagemaker. Nevertheless, there are other ways to prevent damage. “It is important to recognize that the sun protection is only a component of a sun protection strategy that also includes the use of hats with wide width, wearing sun protection clothing and the search for shadows,” says Dr. Jacobs. And apply liberal! In fact, newer formulations are innovative, with additional antioxidants to alleviate sun damage, in which UV filters are neglected. Dr. Wagemaker recommends Lamelle Research Laboratories’ Helase 50+, a full spectrum protection before sunlight, with antioxidants to combat free radicals.
How do sunscreen work against UV light?
Dr. Wagemaker made this practical guide over the five wavelengths of the UV light that affect our body:
UVC
This is (technically) the most dangerous type of UV light, but luckily our atmosphere takes it so that we do not come into contact on earth. And that’s a good thing, because UVC would kill you very quickly.
Effects on the skin: Devasting, fatal – but luckily absorbed by the earth’s atmosphere
Does SPF work? Bio sunscreen: no. Inorganic sunscreen: no. Zinc and Titan: No. iron oxide: protection against 90% – 97% of this frequency.
UVB
This type of UV light is most connected to pain and sunburn, and SPF is good at keeping it in chess. This frequency also creates direct DNA damage to the cells, which leads to devastating damage. Your body has a process to find and correct this damage as a. However, the solar radiation limits the capacity that the cell must carry out for this process.
Effects on the skin: Sunburn, DNA damage and oxidative damage to DNA and molecules
Does SPF work? Organic sunscreen: yes. Inorganic sunscreen: yes. Zinc and Titan: Yes. Iron oxide: yes (96% of this frequency).
Uva
This type of UV is most connected to the skin aging, since the regular broadband SPF fails here. From here, the UV light tends to cause devastating DNA damage that are known as dimers and which the human body cannot fix alone due to a lack of protein in the human body.
Effects on the skin: DNA damage, mutation and cancer due to oxidative damage to DNA and molecules as well as immunosuppression
Does SPF work? Organic sunscreen: 53%. Inorganic sunscreen, zinc and titanium: +/- 50%. Iron oxide: 85 – 95% dependent on the colors used (96% – 99%).
Visible light
One of the most overlooked and therefore most dangerous types of UV light is the radiation in the visible spectrum. Sunscreen does not offer protection against it and suppress the immune system and leads to free radicals form. Our best defense against visible light is antioxidants that are only about 54% effective.
Effects on the skin: Photo-Aging, mutation and cancer due to DNA damage, oxidative damage to DNA and molecules as well as immunosuppression
Does SPF work? Inorganic sunscreen: No, although there is a certain development on foot to achieve the blue light spectrum. Organic sunscreen: yes. Iron oxide: Yes, between 51%and 98%, depending on which color combination is selected (91 – 97%).
Infrared light
And of course the invisible infrared spectrum also affects us disadvantageously. Infrared light from the sun causes severe oxidative stress (if free radicals devastated the DNA and the body, which leads to mutations) and the most common cause of hyperpigmentation. Unfortunately, SPF 50 does not help here. And if SPF is combined with antioxidants, you only get a protection of 56%.
Effects on the skin: Photo-Aging, hyperpigmentation, inflammation and oxidative damage to DNA and molecules.
Does SPF work? No (your best choice is antioxidant skin care)
Important snack bars from South African dermatologists
“Sun protection is safe, effective and essential,” repeats Dr. Wagemaker. “Madelin information can be misleading, but science is clear: The daily use of a broadband SPF is one of the best ways to protect your skin.”
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