How to Do an At-Home Chemical Peel Safely
Overnight serums often contain alpha hydroxy acids (usually glycolic and lactic) and beta hydroxy acids (often salicylic) that work together to remove dead skin cells and reveal the brighter skin beneath. Dr. Westbay recommends this at-home peel type particularly for people with combination skin because overnight serums “are able to target the oily and dry areas of the face,” thanks to the coordinated blend of acids. Try the Kate Somerville Liquid ExfoliKate Triple Acid Resurfacing Treatment, which is powered by AHAs (glycolic, lactic, and malic) and fruit enzymes to gently smooth skin while you sleep.
Tonics/Peeling Solutions
Looking for fast and thorough exfoliation? A peeling solution may be your ideal format, says Dr. Westbay, as they typically feature high concentrations of acid that work to exfoliate deeper levels. Don’t reach for these more than two times per week, even though the frequency “is very dependent on your skin and the product.” That said, if you’ve got sensitive or compromised skin, Dr. Westbay advises against using this type of peel because it can lead to further irritation.
Try Dr. Gohara’s pick, The Ordinary AHA 30% and BHA 2% Peeling Solution, or the Inkey List’s Glycolic Acid toner—a water-like formula that contains 10% glycolic acid and witch hazel to help minimize the appearance of pores.
Multistep kits
Yes, there is more than one step involved, but at-home peel kits can work wonders for those who diligently follow instructions. Multistep kits work great for targeting specific issues and for those with multiple skin-care concerns because they provide a one-two punch of exfoliation followed by a hydrating, or “neutralizing,” step, says Dr. Gohara, who recommends they be used once a month as more intensive treatments. Try Shani Darden Triple Acid Signature Peel (sorry, it’s hard for us to stop shouting it out), Dr. Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Universal Daily Peel (can you tell we love the stuff?), or the IS Clinical Active Peel System (a favorite of Dr. Farhang’s).
How to safely use an at-home peel
Every peel product has its own set of directions that you should read (and then read again!), but dermatologists do offer a few tips to help ensure your peel experience goes smoothly.
Perform a patch test.
A little preliminary testing can go a long way, so if you’re the type who always skips this step when trying a new hair color, heed Dr. Gohara’s words of wisdom: “Patch test the product on a small area of your skin, like behind your ear, to ensure you won’t have a severe reaction.”
Start with a clean slate.
Dr. Westbay recommends starting with skin that has been cleansed of dirt, oil, and makeup and allowing it to dry before applying your peel. “Damp skin can enhance absorption [of acids] and increase the risk of irritation,” she says.
Avoid sensitive areas.
Peels don’t have to be an allover treatment. In fact, suggests Dr. Westbay, skip the skin around your lips and eyes as those areas can be particularly sensitive.
Remember to moisturize.
“Make sure to apply a moisturizer after using a peel to help restore the integrity of the skin barrier,” says Dr. Camp. Look for ingredients like hyaluronic acid and ceramides to help soothe the skin and lock in moisture.
Less (often) is more.
No matter the ingredients you turn to or the brands you choose, our experts advise a cautious approach to the frequency of using at-home peels. Dr. Farhang warns that “peels shouldn’t be used very often.” Once or twice a week is usually sufficient, says Dr. Gohara, adding that too frequent use can damage the skin barrier.
Don’t skimp on sunscreen.
One thing you shouldn’t take a less-is-more approach with, though, is sunscreen. “Chemical exfoliants increase the skin’s sensitivity to UV rays, so using sunscreen is non-negotiable when using peel pads,” says Dr. Westbay. Dr. Gohara also warns that “failing to wear SPF can lead to hyperpigmentation and further irritation.”