A perm typically lasts around 3-6 months, but the exact lifespan can vary depending on factors such as hair type. If you have fine or straight hair curls may relax sooner compared to thick, coarse hair which typically holds the perm longer. Coloured, bleached or damaged hair may not hold curls or may loosen unevenly.
The perm type and rod size can also impact how long a perm can last. Alkaline or cold perms create stronger, tighter curls that generally last longer. Acid perms produce softer, more natural-looking waves but fade faster and digital or hot perms often last longer and hold the curl shape better, especially in medium to coarse hair. Smaller rods create tighter curls that stay noticeable longer as the hair grows out and loosens whereas larger rods create looser waves that may appear to drop faster, even if the perm is still technically intact. Proper sectioning, tension, processing time and neutralising all affect the longevity of your perm.
Overprocessing can weaken hair, causing curls to fall quickly, while under processing may result in curls that never fully set. The stylists experience plays a big role in how evenly and long the perm lasts. While most perms last several months, the curl pattern will slowly relax as the hair grows, and daily habits take their toll. With proper care, a perm can look good for much longer within that 3-6 month window.
What Is a Hair Perm?
Types of Perms Explained (Cold, Digital, Spiral)
Cold/ Alkaline Perm
A cold perm, also known as an alkaline perm, is the most traditional type of perm and is especially known for its strong curl formation and long-lasting results. It uses an alkaline solution that produces at room temperature, meaning no external heat is required. The solution breaks down the hair’s natural bonds, and the hair is reshaped around rods before being neutralised to lock in the new curl pattern. Cold perms are valued for their durability as they create firm, well-defined curls that hold their shape better over time than softer perm types. As the alkaline solution penetrates deeply, the curl pattern tends to relax more slowly, often lasting 4-6 months longer depending on hair growth and care. Cold perms work best on hair that can tolerate stronger chemical processing- naturally straight hair, medium to coarse hair and healthy, untreated hair. Overall, if longevity is the main goal, a cold perm is the best choice.
Digital Perm
A digital perm or a hot perm is a modern perming technique that combines chemical processing with controlled heat to create long-lasting, defined curls especially through the mid-lengths and ends. This technique uses a restructuring solution to break the hair’s internal bonds, like other perms, but the hair is then wrapped around heated rods connected to a temperature-controlled machine. Heat is applied during processing, which ‘trains’ the hair into a specific curl shape before neutralisation locks it in. Digital perms are known for excellent curl memory and shape retention. The use of heat sets the curl pattern more precisely, resulting in uniform, predictable curls. Curls tend to last 6 months or longer, especially for those with medium to coarse hair. Unlike cold perms, digital perms are often more defined when the hair is dry and relax less noticeably over time. Digital perms work on naturally straight or wavy hair, previously coloured hair and medium to coarse textures- all which can handle both chemical processing and heat. A digital perm is a great choice for clients who want long-lasting, soft yet defined curls.
Spiral Perm
A spiral perm is a technique designed to create long vertical corkscrew curls that run from roots to ends. The look is defined by both the wrapping method and rod size, making it one of the most dramatic and curl-focused perm styles. In a spiral perm, the hair is wrapped vertically around long perm rods rather than horizontally. This allows the curls to fall in a natural spiral pattern. Spiral perms are most commonly performed using a cold perm solution, though other formulations can be used depending on hair condition.
Spiral perms are known for strong curl retention. The vertical wrapping and typically smaller rod sizes create tight curls that remain visible even as they relax. When done with a cold perm solution, spiral perms often last 4-6 months or longer, especially on healthy hair. As the perm grows out, new growth shows at the roots but the spiral pattern through the length stays well-defined. Even when the curls loosen over time, it usually transitions into a softer spiral rather than disappearing. Spiral perms work for hair types that can support structured, vertical curls and anyone seeking long-lasting, bold curls with strong definition.
Factors That Affect How Long a Hair Perm Lasts
Hair Type & Texture
Hair type and texture play a major role in how long a perm lasts because they affect how easily the hair’s internal bonds are broken, reshaped and held in place. Fine hair processes quickly because the hair shaft is smaller and less dense. It can take a curl easily, but the curl often relaxes faster over time. Its longevity is short to moderate unless carefully processed and maintained. Medium hair is considered the ideal texture for perming as it holds the curl well without requiring overly strong solutions. It is typically more long lasting with the proper care. Coarse hair has a thicker cuticle and stronger internal structure, making it more resistant. However, once the curl is established it usually lasts longer than finer hair making it more long lasting when properly processed.
Perm Technique & Rod Size
The longevity of a perm not only depends on hair type but is also heavily influenced by how the perm is done. Even, consistent sections ensure curls form uniformly, preventing uneven relaxation over time. Wrapping hair too tight can cause breakage, while too loose leads to floppy curls. Correct tension creates defined, long-lasting curls. Smaller rods give tight, springy curls that last longer, while larger rods produce loose waves that may relax sooner. Stronger solutions create firmer curls ideal for resistant hair, whereas gentler solutions suit fine or fragile hair but may fade faster. A perm lasts longest when the stylist balances technique, rod size and solution strength to match your hair type. Proper execution ensures your curls stay bouncy, even and beautiful for months.
Aftercare Decisions
Aftercare is crucial for how long a perm lasts because the new curl pattern takes time to set fully, and daily habits can either preserve it or weaken it. After a perm, the hair’s internal bonds are still restructuring and locking in the curl. Washing too soon can loosen the curl prematurely, waiting at least 2 days helps ensure the curls remain firm and defined. Using sulphate-free shampoo is another way to look after your perm. Sulphates strip natural oils and weaken chemically treated hair, opting for a sulphate-free shampoo helps maintain moisture and prevents curls from relaxing- look for shampoos labelled ‘permed’ or ‘colour-safe’ for extra protection. While moisture is important, heavy oils or silicones can weigh down curls causing them to loosen faster and look flat, instead opt for a lightweight leave-in conditioner or curl cream that is designed for permed hair.
Another factor that can impact your perm is sun exposure and chlorine, both can break down perm chemicals, leading to faded or frizzy curls. Even the best perm can lose its shape quickly without proper aftercare. By waiting to wash, using gentle products and protecting your hair, you maximise curl longevity, keep hair healthy and ensure your perm looks bouncy and fresh for months.
How Long Does a Hair Perm Last, The Real Answer
No two perms last the same, hair type, lifestyle and technique can alter the duration. On average, perms last between 3-6 months, the permed portion of hair stays curly until it grows out or is cut off but the look softens over time as curls relax and new straight growth appears at the roots. Loose wave perms last around 2-4 months as the large rods create soft, beachy waves that relax faster than tighter curls whereas a body wave perm may only last 2-3 months as the curl pattern is very loose. Spiral perms can last 4-6 months, sometimes longer as the tight, vertical curls hold their shape longer. A digital or hot perm can last up to 8 months due to the heat activation making curls more durable and a short hair perm lasts 2-4 months as short hair is cut more frequently, removing permed sections sooner.
Benefits & Drawbacks of Hair Perms
Benefits
Perms add long-lasting curls, waves or volume, making hair look fuller and more textured. They can reduce styling time and customisable to suit different hair types and desired looks, from soft waves to defined curls.
Drawbacks
Because perms use chemicals, they can cause dryness or damage if not done or maintained properly. They are not easily reversible, require consistent aftercare and new hair growth will remain unpermed, which may need ongoing maintenance.
Alternatives to Perms (If You Want Flexible Styling)
Perm alternatives are perfect for those wanting flexibility, lower commitment or minimal chemical processing. Heatless curls use rollers, braids or curls wraps to create waves without heat or chemicals. They are gentle on the hair and ideal for temporary styles, though results are short-lived and usually need to be redone after washing or sleeping. Curling wands create instant curls or waves with adjustable sizes and styles. They offer flexibility and control, making them great for changing looks frequently. However, frequent heat use can lead to dryness or damage without proper heat protection. Texturising treatments are light chemical services designed to enhance natural waves or reduce stiffness rather than create full curls. They add movement and softness with less commitment than a perm, but results are subtler and still require maintenance and conditioning. Root wave techniques focus on adding lift and volume at the roots without curling the lengths, they are ideal for flat or fine hair as they create a natural-looking boost, though they don’t provide curl definition and require touch-ups as hair grows.
Book a Professional Consultation at Rush Hair
If you are looking to get a perm but don’t know where to start, Rush stylists’ expertise in analysing hair type, porosity and curl goals and can give personalised advice on perm type, longevity and maintenance. Find a salon and book in for a consultation today!
FAQ’s
Most perms last 3-6 months but the new hair at the roots will grow straight, creating a contrast. Touch ups are usually done every 3-4 months to maintain consistent curl throughout the hair.
Yes, you colour your hair after a perm, but it requires careful timing and care to avoid damage or altering your curls.
Perms behave differently on short hair versus long hair. Curls appear more tight and voluminous on short hair as there’s less weight to pull them down, whereas on longer hair, curls are usually looser due to the hairs weight.
A perm may fail to ‘take’ for several reasons including over-processed or damaged hair, resistant hair, incorrect perm solution or rod size or improper application.
Yes, you can wet your hair after a perm but timing and care are very important to protect your curls. Wait at least 48-72 hours after the perm before washing.
