Written by Benjamin Khordipour, expert jeweler, gemologist, celebrity jeweler, author, and lecturer.
When choosing between an emerald cut and an Asscher cut diamond, understanding their differences in shape, brilliance, and overall aesthetic is essential. Both cuts offer a refined, vintage-inspired appeal, but their unique faceting and proportions create distinct visual effects that cater to different preferences.
Origins of Asscher and Emerald Cut
The emerald cut and Asscher cut both have deep historical roots, with their distinct styles emerging from different eras and influences. While the emerald cut evolved gradually over centuries, the Asscher cut was a patented creation that gained fame in the early 20th century.
The emerald cut was originally developed for emerald gemstones, as its step-cut faceting helped prevent chipping in the fragile stone. Over time, this cut was adapted for diamonds, offering a sophisticated look while maximizing rough diamond yield. Though its exact origins remain unclear, the emerald cut became widely popular during the Art Deco era of the 1920s, with its sleek, geometric lines complementing the bold aesthetics of the period.
The Asscher cut was created in 1902 by the Asscher Diamond Company in Amsterdam. Unlike the loosely defined emerald cut, the Asscher cut had strict proportions, making it an instantly recognizable, symmetrical square shape. As Art Deco flourished, so did the Asscher cut’s popularity. However, during World War II, Amsterdam’s diamond industry suffered greatly, and the patent lapsed, allowing other companies to reproduce the cut. The Asscher family later introduced the Royal Asscher cut in 2001 as a refined version of the original.
Emerald Cut vs. Asscher Cut
The emerald cut and Asscher cut are both step-cut diamonds known for their sophisticated, vintage appeal. However, they differ in shape, faceting style, and overall appearance. The emerald cut has a rectangular silhouette with long, parallel facets, offering an elongated, elegant look. The Asscher cut, on the other hand, is square with deeply trimmed corners, giving it a more geometric and bold aesthetic. Below is a comparison of their key differences:
| Feature | Emerald Cut | Asscher Cut |
|---|---|---|
| Shape | Rectangular | Square (Octagonal appearance) |
| Faceting Style | Long, parallel step-cut facets | Concentric step-cut facets |
| Brilliance | Subtle flashes of light (hall-of-mirrors effect) | More dramatic, kaleidoscopic effect |
| Appearance on Hand | Elongates fingers, elegant look | Bold, vintage, Art Deco-inspired |
| Clarity Considerations | Inclusions are more visible due to open facets | Inclusions can be noticeable but often blend into facets |
| Size Perception | Appears larger for its carat weight | Appears slightly smaller due to deeper cut |
| Popular Settings | Solitaire, three-stone, halo | Vintage, bezel, halo, Art Deco settings |
| Price Comparison | Typically more affordable per carat | Generally more expensive per carat due to depth and rarity |
Both cuts offer timeless beauty, with the emerald cut exuding understated elegance and the Asscher cut making a bolder, vintage statement. Choosing between them depends on personal style preferences and how much brilliance, size, or uniqueness matters in the final look.
1. Brilliance and Fire: Which One Sparkles More?
When comparing the sparkle of an emerald cut and an Asscher cut, it’s important to understand how their faceting influences light performance. Unlike brilliant cuts, which are designed for maximum sparkle, both the emerald and Asscher cuts belong to the step-cut family. This means they reflect light in broader, mirror-like flashes rather than the scattered sparkle seen in round or cushion-cut diamonds.
That said, there is a noticeable difference between the two. The emerald cut has long, parallel step facets that create a hall-of-mirrors effect, meaning light reflects in broad, elongated flashes. This effect emphasizes clarity and luster rather than intense brilliance. The emerald cut’s elongated shape also means light travels in straight lines rather than bouncing in multiple directions, making it appear more understated and elegant rather than fiery.
The Asscher cut, on the other hand, has a more kaleidoscopic light performance due to its square shape and concentric step-cut facets. Since it is cut deeper and has a higher crown, light gets trapped and reflected within the stone in a more dramatic way. This gives the Asscher cut a slightly brighter and livelier appearance compared to the emerald cut, though still far less than a brilliant cut diamond.
If subtle, elegant flashes of light appeal to you, the emerald cut is a perfect choice. However, if you want a step-cut diamond with more internal sparkle, the Asscher cut provides a slightly more dazzling alternative while maintaining its vintage sophistication.
2. Shape and Appearance on the Hand
The emerald cut and Asscher cut diamonds have distinct shapes that affect how they look when worn as a ring. The emerald cut has a rectangular silhouette, which elongates the finger and creates a refined, elegant appearance. Its long step facets emphasize clarity and give the diamond a sophisticated, understated glow rather than intense sparkle. Because of its elongated shape, the emerald cut often appears larger per carat compared to the Asscher cut, making it an excellent choice for those who want a diamond that looks sizeable on the hand.
The Asscher cut, in contrast, has a square shape with deeply cropped corners, forming an almost octagonal outline. This cut has a bold, geometric look that feels more vintage and Art Deco in style. Due to its deeper proportions, the Asscher cut can appear slightly smaller than an emerald cut of the same carat weight, but it compensates with a mesmerizing, kaleidoscopic reflection pattern. It sits beautifully in settings with antique or vintage influences, offering a regal and structured aesthetic.
For those who prefer a sleek, elongating effect, the emerald cut is ideal, while the Asscher cut is better suited for those who love a bold, symmetrical look with vintage charm.
3. Clarity and Inclusions: Which Cut Hides Flaws Better?
Both the emerald cut and Asscher cut diamonds have large, open facets that make clarity an essential factor when choosing a stone. Unlike brilliant cuts, which have multiple small facets that help scatter light and mask inclusions, step-cut diamonds emphasize transparency and luster, making any internal flaws or imperfections more visible.
Between the two, the Asscher cut does a slightly better job at concealing inclusions. Its deep pavilion and concentric step facets create a kaleidoscopic effect, where light bounces inward and makes small inclusions less noticeable. However, this only provides a slight advantage, as larger or centrally located inclusions will still be visible, especially under magnification.
The emerald cut, with its long, straight facets and broad table, tends to make inclusions stand out more. Since light reflects in clear, uninterrupted flashes, any imperfection beneath the surface is easier to detect. This means that higher clarity grades (VS2 or better) are generally recommended for emerald cuts to maintain a clean, flawless look.
If clarity is a top priority, both cuts should be chosen with minimal inclusions. However, if you want a step-cut diamond that is slightly more forgiving, the Asscher cut offers a marginal advantage due to its unique faceting pattern.
4. Price Comparison: Which Is More Expensive?
When comparing the emerald cut and Asscher cut in terms of price, several factors come into play, including demand, carat weight, clarity, and cut quality. Generally, Asscher cut diamonds tend to be slightly more expensive per carat than emerald cuts. This is primarily due to their deeper cut, which retains more weight in the lower part of the diamond, making them appear smaller for the same carat size. As a result, buyers may need to purchase a higher-carat Asscher cut to achieve the same visual presence as an emerald cut, increasing overall cost.
Emerald cuts, on the other hand, offer better size-per-carat value, appearing larger than Asscher cuts of the same weight. Additionally, since emerald cuts are more widely available and in higher demand, they tend to have more competitive pricing. However, both cuts require high clarity, which can drive up the price depending on the stone’s quality.
5. Best Settings for Emerald and Asscher Cut Diamonds
Choosing the right setting enhances the beauty of emerald cut and Asscher cut diamonds by complementing their unique shapes and faceting styles.
For emerald cut diamonds, settings that emphasize their elongated elegance work best. Solitaire settings highlight the clean lines and sophisticated simplicity of the cut, while three-stone settings add extra brilliance with side stones, such as tapered baguettes or trapezoid diamonds. Halo settings provide contrast and enhance the diamond’s size, making it appear larger and more radiant.
For Asscher cut diamonds, vintage-inspired settings bring out their Art Deco charm. Bezel settings accentuate the square shape while offering extra protection, and halo settings amplify the diamond’s brilliance, making its step-cut facets stand out. Pavé bands add extra sparkle, balancing the Asscher cut’s deep facets with a touch of brilliance.
Both cuts shine best in platinum, which enhances their clarity and crisp faceting, creating a timeless, elegant look.
Similarities and Differences of Emerald and Asscher Cut Diamonds
Both emerald cut and Asscher cut diamonds belong to the step-cut family, characterized by their long, parallel facets that create a hall-of-mirrors effect rather than the fiery brilliance seen in round or cushion cuts. They share a sleek, elegant aesthetic, emphasizing clarity and luster over intense sparkle. Both cuts also tend to showcase inclusions more than brilliant cuts, making higher clarity grades particularly important when selecting a stone.
Despite these similarities, their shapes and faceting patterns set them apart. The emerald cut is rectangular with a longer, more elongated profile, creating a refined, sophisticated look that enhances finger length when set in a ring. It features large, open facets and a broad table, emphasizing the diamond’s clarity and depth. In contrast, the Asscher cut has a square shape with deeply trimmed corners, forming an almost octagonal outline. Its facets are arranged in a concentric pattern, drawing the eye inward and giving the stone a more dramatic, kaleidoscopic appearance.
The choice between these cuts often comes down to personal style. Emerald cuts have a more understated, linear elegance, while Asscher cuts offer a bolder, vintage-inspired look with an almost Art Deco flair. Both are excellent choices for those who appreciate timeless, architectural beauty.
Emerald Vs Asscher Vs Royal Asscher
Pros and Cons of Asscher and Emerald Cut Diamonds
Both emerald cut and Asscher cut diamonds offer timeless beauty, but each comes with its own strengths and drawbacks. Understanding their pros and cons can help you decide which cut is best for your style, budget, and lifestyle.
Emerald Cut: Pros & Cons
Pros:
- Appears larger per carat due to its elongated shape.
- Creates a sleek, sophisticated look with clean lines.
- Offers a refined, understated elegance, making it a favorite among celebrities and royalty.
- Typically more affordable per carat than Asscher cuts.
Cons:
- Shows inclusions and color more easily due to its large, open table.
- Has a subtler sparkle compared to brilliant cuts, making it less fiery.
- Can appear too linear or understated for those who prefer more brilliance.
Asscher Cut: Pros & Cons
Pros:
- Unique, vintage-inspired look with an Art Deco appeal.
- More brilliance than emerald cuts, with a hall-of-mirrors and kaleidoscopic effect.
- Symmetrical square shape offers a bold, structured appearance.
- Hides small inclusions slightly better than an emerald cut due to its deeper faceting.
Cons:
- Appears smaller per carat due to its depth.
- Generally more expensive per carat because of weight retention.
- Fewer options available compared to the more popular emerald cut.
Both cuts cater to different aesthetics—emerald cuts exude elegance and refinement, while Asscher cuts offer a bold, vintage charm. The choice depends on personal preference and whether you prioritize size, clarity, or brilliance.
Do you have any questions about diamonds? Do you want to learn more about the difference between Emerald Cut vs. Asscher Cut Diamonds? Feel free to reach out to our diamond and jewelry experts. We will respond within one business hour.
