Antique jewelry offers a captivating glimpse into the artistry and culture of the past, with each era leaving behind its own unique style and craftsmanship. This guide was written by Benjamin Khordipour, a GIA-certified gemologist, author, and one of the leading voices in the world of antique and estate jewelry.
- Georgian Era (1714 – 1837)
- The Victorian Era (1837 – 1901)
- Edwardian Era (1901 – 1915)
- Art Nouveau (1890 – 1910)
- Art Deco Era (1920 – 1945)
- Retro Era (1939 – 1950)
- Mid-Century Era (1950 – 1970)
1. The Georgian Era (1714 – 1837)
The Georgian Era lasted over 120 years and spanned four English Kings called George: King George I, King George II, King George III, and King George IV. While the era is impressive simply because of its length of time, the reality is that during the Georgian Era, jewelry advanced much more slowly than the jewelry styles of other eras.
High-quality Georgian-era jewelry is very difficult to find today. Most fine Georgian jewelry is in museums, lost, or has not stood the test of time.
Stones and Metals in Georgian Jewelry
Jewelry from the Georgian Era consisted of yellow gold and silver. The popular gemstones in Georgian jewelry were diamonds, pearls, sapphires, rubies, glass, paste, topaz, and garnet.
Stone-cutting tools and handcrafting techniques were highly underdeveloped, so Georgian jewelry is often very easy to date.
The diamond cuts are point cuts, table cuts, old mine cuts, antique cushion cuts, single cuts, and rose cuts.
Motifs of Georgian Era Jewelry
During the Georgian era, jewelry designs were deeply influenced by the culture and aesthetics of the time.
One of the most beloved motifs of the Georgian era was nature itself, like delicate flowers, curling leaves, and graceful vines. They motifs were very common in rings, brooches, and necklaces. These natural elements weren’t just decorative; they symbolized ideas like growth, renewal, and the passing of time.
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To learn more about the jewelry from the Georgian Era, click here to read our complete guide.
2. The Victorian Era (1837 – 1901)
Not surprisingly, the Victorian Era refers to Queen Victoria of England. She reigned during the 1800s and was directly responsible for many important changes in jewelry styles. The era itself splits into three periods, which correlate to the different periods of Queen Victoria’s life:
- Romantic Victorian Era
- Grand Victorian Era
- Aesthetic Victorian Era
Stones and Metals in Victorian Jewelry
Jewelry from the Victorian Era is far more prevalent than Georgian-era jewelry and more accessible to find nowadays. Gold and silver remained the most popular metals in the Victorian Era. Stones popular during this time were garnets, amethyst, turquoise, sapphires, pearls, and diamonds.
Motifs of Victorian Jewelry
Victorian jewelry reflected the sweeping changes and emotions of the era. Additionally, the Victorian motifs weren’t just decorative but rather they often carried deep meaning, inspired by the struggles and hopes of the time.
Floral themes were especially popular, with each flower chosen to convey a specific message. Jewelry became a way to speak without words, whether through a forget-me-not brooch or a rose-shaped pendant. Lockets and mourning pieces added to this emotional storytelling, sometimes holding a lock of hair or a tiny portrait of a loved one.
At the same time, there was a strong interest in the past. Victorian designs borrowed heavily from earlier eras, like Gothic arches, Renaissance scrolls, and even ancient Egyptian and Greek symbols. You’ll see this influence in detailed cameos, filigree, and Etruscan-style patterns.
Animal motifs were also in vogue, especially snakes, which symbolized eternal love and loyalty. In fact, Queen Victoria’s own engagement ring was shaped like a serpent.
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3. Edwardian Era (1901 – 1915)
The Edwardian Era follows the reign of England’s King Edward VII. King Edward VII reigned from 1901-1910 and was the last monarch to serve as a namesake in jewelry history.
This very important jewelry period, also known as the La Belle Epoque Era, was the first time platinum was officially a part of the jewelry scene. Although platinum was first crafted with gold, it quickly grew in popularity and was later an item of its own.
Stones and Metals in Edwardian Jewelry
Diamonds, onyx, and pearls retained their prestigious status during this period. Colored gemstones like sapphires, emeralds, and rubies were hardly utilized, and if they were, they were usually relegated to the role of accenting stones at best.
Platinum was the dominant metal during the Edwardian Era, quickly surpassing gold. Platinum was also incorporated with gold to create a beautiful mixed-metal effect.
Motifs of Edwardian Jewelry
Edwardian jewelry experienced a massive shift in style away from the Victorian era. Common motifs in Edwardian jewelry reflected the prevailing spirit of the time, which was marked by elegance, femininity, and a fascination with delicacy. Platinum became a favored metal due to its strength and ability to accommodate intricate designs, and this metal has remained popular among high-jewelry till today.
Edwardian Motifs often included bows, garlands, and ribbons. Floral designs, especially featuring delicate blossoms like roses and lilies, were also prominent. Pearls, diamonds, and colored gemstones were very popular and used to enhance the jewelry’s glow. This contributed to the overall air of refinement that defines the Edwardian jewelry.
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4. Art Nouveau (1890 – 1910)
The Art Nouveau period, derived from the French for “New Art,” was named after the 1895 opening of Siegfried Bing’s Parisian gallery “Maison de l’Art Nouveau.” This era’s aesthetics is also Arts and Crafts, Jugendstil, Liberty Style, and Secession, to name a few.
Designs of this era are organic, flowery, and draping. While the timeframe of the period overlaps with the Edwardian Era, the styles were entirely different. While Edwardian Era jewelry is full of detail, symmetrical, and delicate, Art Nouveau jewelry is a celebration of free form. Art Nouveau style contains an organic structure with no symmetry.
Genuine Art Nouveau jewelry from the early 1900s is very difficult to find. The Art Nouveau jewelry that has survived is very hard to obtain.
Stones and Metals in Art Nouveau Jewelry
Art Nouveau jewelry was known for its innovative use of both stones and metals, reflecting the movement’s departure from traditional jewelry conventions. Common stones in Art Nouveau pieces included opals, moonstones, and pearls, chosen for their ethereal, iridescent qualities that mimicked the play of light found in nature.
These stones were often set in delicate, flowing designs that celebrated their natural beauty. Metals like silver and gold remained popular, but what set Art Nouveau apart was the introduction of new materials like enamel, glass, and horn. Enamel work was particularly notable, with jewelers using it to create vibrant, iridescent surfaces that complemented the organic motifs of their designs.
This combination of unconventional materials and a deep reverence for nature allowed Art Nouveau jewelry to stand out as a unique and innovative movement in the world of decorative arts.
Motifs of Art Nouveau Jewelry
Art Nouveau jewelry, which emerged in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, was a remarkable departure from the preceding artistic styles. Common motifs in Art Nouveau jewelry were characterized by a profound celebration of nature’s beauty and the embrace of asymmetry and fluid, organic forms. This movement drew inspiration from the natural world, featuring motifs like sinuous vines, flowing water, insects, and exotic flowers.
Designers of Art Nouveau jewelry sought to capture the essence of nature’s grace and vitality, often incorporating iridescent materials like enamel and opals to mimic the play of light and color in the natural world. The emphasis on sensuous, curvilinear lines and the rejection of rigid symmetry marked a significant departure from the prevailing styles of the time, giving rise to jewelry pieces that were not only beautiful but also embodied the spirit of artistic freedom and individuality.
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5. Art Deco Era (1920 – 1945)
The Art Deco period, emerging after the conclusion of World War I, took its name from the French architect Le Corbusier. He titled the Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes simply “1925 Expo: Art Deco.”
A far cry from Georgian Era and Victorian Era jewelry, Art Deco Jewelry is known for being geometrical, angular, and clean look. The Art Deco style inspired many architects to design landmarks using these concepts.
Stones and Metals in Art Deco Jewelry
Art Deco jewelry, which emerged during the 1920s and 1930s, showcased a striking departure from the organic and flowing forms of Art Nouveau. Common stones and metals in Art Deco jewelry were chosen to emphasize geometric precision and a sense of opulence. Diamonds took center stage, with their dazzling brilliance and pristine clarity being highly sought after. Other gemstones like sapphires, rubies, and emeralds were often used to add vibrant bursts of color, creating a bold and contrasting effect.
Platinum was the preferred metal due to its strength and ability to hold intricate, angular designs. The combination of these precious stones and metals allowed Art Deco jewelry to achieve its signature aesthetic: sleek lines, sharp angles, and a sense of luxury and sophistication that defined the era’s modernity and elegance.
Motifs of Art Deco Jewelry
Art Deco was characterized by a distinct shift in design motifs, departing from the organic forms of Art Nouveau. Common motifs in Art Deco jewelry were marked by geometric precision, symmetry, and a sense of opulence. Geometric shapes such as triangles, rectangles, and circles were prominent, often arranged in intricate patterns that conveyed a strong sense of order and sophistication.
Egyptian and architectural influences also played a significant role, with motifs like pyramids, chevrons, and stepped designs reflecting the fascination with the exotic and the modern.
Additionally, the use of bold, contrasting color combinations and materials like onyx, coral, and jade added a striking visual impact to Art Deco jewelry, making it an iconic representation of the era’s opulence and artistic innovation.
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6. Retro Era (1939 – 1950)
The Retro Era concluded with the end of World War II. The style is heavily inspired by the war and the victory that followed.
The symmetrical element from the Art Deco Era was not disregarded with the shift into the Retro Era, but rather was interpreted into a bolder and stronger design. Many jewelry pieces, in fact, incorporated both eras.
Stones and Metals in Retro Era Jewelry
Retro era jewelry, which flourished during the 1940s and 1950s, was a direct expression of the age.
Common metals in Retro era jewelry included yellow gold, often used in bold, chunky designs that conveyed a sense of luxury and opulence. Rose gold also made a resurgence, adding a warm and romantic hue to many pieces. Additionally, and although it didn’t gain too much popularity yet, white gold was starting to become a more-attainable replacement for platinum.
The most prominent stones during this era were colored gemstones like amethysts, rubies, aquamarines, citrines, and sapphires. The gems were often large, and they were usually showcased in large eye-catching settings.
These gemstones added a glamorous and colorful dimension to Retro jewelry.
Motifs of Retro Era Jewelry
Common motifs in Retro era jewelry included patriotic symbols such as stars and stripes. Floral motifs, especially the use of rose, scrolls and bow designs were also very popular, usually with a bold interpretation. Tank motifs were one of the most popular motifs.
Retro jewelry also embraced bold, three-dimensional forms, often featuring oversized gemstones like aquamarines, amethysts, and citrines in elaborate settings. This era’s designs, with their sense of grandeur and exuberance, were a reflection of the era’s newfound prosperity and the desire to celebrate life after a period of hardship, making Retro era jewelry a unique blend of history, sentiment, and Hollywood-inspired allure.
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7. Mid-Century Era (1950 – 1970s)
The Mid-Century Era of jewelry emerged in the generation right after World War II. It was a time of high optimism and great innovation. And as the women finally returned to fashion and glamour after years of wartime restraint, jewelry followed suit. The design was one of victory and it was bolder and brighter than any of the jewelry era before it.
Designs during this era moved away from the ornate styles of the earlier eras. The Mid-century, like the Art Deco and retro eras, embraced clean lines and geometric shapes. The jewelry reflected the spirit of the time. The vibe was confident, modern, and unafraid to stand out. From sleek cocktail rings to dramatic earrings, Mid-Century pieces is easily recognizable.
Stones and Metals in Mid-Century Jewelry
Much of the Mid-Century jewelry was all about making a strong statement. Diamonds were still in high demand, but colorful gemstones like aquamarine, citrine, amethyst, and turquoise also were incredibly popular.
Designers weren’t shy about mixing and layering gemstones for contrast and visual impact, especially when creating 3D illusions.
Yellow gold dominated the early part of the era, giving way to platinum and white gold as tastes evolved.
Texture was also a strong theme during the Mid-Century with brushed, braided, and sculpted gold designs rising in popularity. Some of the most iconic designs of the time came from jewelry houses like Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Tiffany & Co., all of whom pushed the limits of creativity in both form and material.
Motifs of Mid-Century Jewelry
The motifs of Mid-Century jewelry reflected the optimism and innovation of the era. Atomic-age shapes, starbursts, boomerangs, and abstract lines became common themes, echoing the space race and modern art movements.
Jewelry wasn’t just an accessory, but another way to voice your opinion of the fast-changing world.
Floral motifs remained popular, but with a more stylized, modern twist. Animals (especially birds and big cats) made frequent appearances in the jewelry, often in whimsical and creative forms. Mid-Century designers weren’t afraid to blur the line between jewelry and sculpture.
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