The Asscher cut diamond is the design and invention of Joseph Asscher in 1902. The Asscher cut diamond has strong associations with vintage jewelry.
Because they have a very appealing and unique sense of style, engagement rings with Asscher cut diamonds are both rare and attractive for many young brides today.
What is an Asscher cut diamond?
The Asscher cut diamond is essentially just an emerald-shaped square diamond. It can be recognized by its large, widely spaced facets, which give the stone an octagonal shape. Some jewelers still refer to Asscher cuts as “square emerald cut”.
Typical engagement rings with a vintage Asscher cut are diamonds with wide windmill reflections, deep pavilions, wide-cut corners, small tables or high crowns.
Due to their stepped cut, Asscher cut diamonds have more inclusions than round diamonds. Similar to the emerald cut, the Asscher cut with SI clarity will expose more inclusions than any other antique diamond. If you are looking for a good quality Asscher cut diamond, we recommend starting with a clarity of VS2 or higher.
The Asscher cut diamond is identified by its 58 larger step facets, the smaller table and the higher crown. The clarity of an Asscher cut diamond really sets it apart. In contrast to brilliant cuts, Asscher cuts do not have as much shine and brilliance.
History of the Asscher Cut
The Asscher family patent
The patent for the Asscher cut diamond was filed in 1902 by The Asscher Diamond Company in Amsterdam, Holland. Due to Jewish persecution, the Asscher family’s business and diamond stores were confiscated during World War II. The patent was never renewed.
The lack of patents led many companies to use the square emerald cut design of the original Asscher cut.
The achievements of the Asscher family
Joseph Asscher was already a famous diamond expert when the Cullinan diamond was discovered in South Africa in 1905. King Edward VII of England received the diamonds and commissioned The Asscher Company to split the huge 3,106 carat stone.
The resulting cut stones, nominally named Cullinan I through Cullinan IX, are all owned by the British Royal Family, with the two largest stones being part of the British Crown Jewels. The Cullinan II is one of the most famous pillow cut diamonds.
In recent years, the Asscher Cut has become synonymous with celebrity romance, with the cut being a feature of several very high profile vintage engagement rings.
This association with fame and notoriety is not new. It’s been popular since its inception.
As of the year 2000, the Asscher cut diamond has become one of the most popular diamonds on the market, and its popularity grows year by year.
Asscher Cut Grading Guide
Asscher cuts, while falling within the spectrum of the emerald cuts, will still cover various ratios while keeping their name. You can determine the squareness of the Asscher cut using the ratio table above.
Find the ratio by dividing the width by the length. For example, if the dimensions of the Asscher cut are 5mm x 5mm, the ratio is 1.0. If the dimensions of the diamond are 5mm x 5.2mm, the ratio is 1.04.
Anything above a ratio of 1.08 in a modern Asscher diamond is undesirable in the current marketplace. Real antique Asscher cuts are so rare that even a ratio of 1.10 is very desirable.
Antique Asscher cut diamonds
The culette is the small point or facet at the bottom of a diamond. It was added in the 14th century after the creation of the panel cut. The real antique Asscher cuts include a culet and a relatively small table.
Given the culet and table requirements, authentic vintage Asscher cut engagement rings are very rare and difficult to obtain. Their distinctive appearance, especially the face up, makes them a popular style for antique lovers.
Antique Asscher-cut diamond engagement rings sometimes feature square, concentric patterns that resemble a “house of mirrors”.
This results in a sparkling quality that adds to its popularity among vintage engagement rings.
Asscher cut diamonds today
Asscher cut engagement rings have seen a resurgence alongside public interest in antique and vintage jewelry. The dimensions of the current Asscher cut diamonds vary dramatically from stone to stone, but the simplicity and grace of this cut remain the same across the board. The height of the crown and pavilion is always not the same, and their proportions are different.
In contrast to round diamonds, experts are unsure of the optimal Asscher ratios. The final decision rests with the buyer.
The Krupp diamond
The first diamond Richard Burton bought for Elizabeth Taylor was the 33.19-carat Krupp diamond. The Krupp diamond is of exceptional quality and cost Taylor $ 307,000.
Classified as D color and VS1 clarity by the GIA. This diamond also contains information indicating that the stone is likely flawless internally. Such diamonds, which are classified as Type IIa, are extremely rare.
She considered the Krupp diamond one of her favorite pieces and often wore it to film and television appearances.
After her death, the diamond became known as “The Elizabeth Taylor” diamond in recognition of her affection for the diamond. Despite the disclosure that brought the Cullinan and Krupp / Taylor diamonds to the Asscher cut, it remained a niche example in the diamond world.
Part of the allure of this diamond was its unique focus. Instead of sparkling and sparkling as would be the case with brilliant cut diamonds, this diamond shows its clarity and inner flawlessness. This limits its appeal to all but the most discerning eyes.
Click on the link to learn more about Elizabeth Taylor’s fascinating jewelry.
Buy Asscher cut engagement rings
Here are some of the stunning Asscher cut diamond engagement rings from our collection.
Take a look at our Asscher Cut jewelry
Knowledgeable buyers keep choosing Estate Diamond Jewelry because they recognize the commitment to quality that has defined our company.
We employ third generation jewelers who specialize in exactly the same techniques that were common in the Art Deco realm. Our experts understand the craftsmanship of antique jewelry in a profound way that is unparalleled in the industry. When you ask for the best of the best, there is no substitute for our stunning vintage Asscher cut engagement rings.
Click here to view our Asscher Cut collection.
Would you like to buy an Asscher cut diamond? Don’t hesitate to contact our diamond experts and we can help you find your dream diamond.