What is ascorbyl palmitate?
Ascorbyl palmitate is a stable, fat soluble Form of vitamin C used in skin care products to protect the skin from free radicals, stimulate collagen production and reduce hyperpigmentation.
Vitamin C is a naturally occurring antioxidant that is synthesized from glucose by most plants and animals.
Man lacks the enzyme L-glucono-gamma-lactone oxidase, required to produce vitamin C, which means it must be obtained from food sources.
Vitamin C is required for normal growth, development, and repair of damaged tissues in the body, as well as for the enzymatic production of certain neurotransmitters. It is also important for the immune system to function.
Vitamin C is the most common antioxidant in human skin. However, after oral intake of vitamin C, absorption in the intestine is limited by an active transport mechanism. This means that no matter how much vitamin C you ingest, only a limited amount can be absorbed. In addition, the bioavailability of vitamin C in the skin is insufficient when administered orally. Therefore, we only rely on an external supplement, such as topical application in cosmetics.
Vitamin C is available in a number of active forms. One is ascorbyl palmitate, an ester formed from ascorbic acid or pure vitamin C. and Palmitic acida saturated fatty acid. The result is a lipid or fat soluble form of vitamin C.
The functions of ascorbyl palmitate are discussed below. However, the most biologically active form of vitamin C is L-ascorbic acid. While L-ascorbic acid can be used in topical products, its use is limited because it is very unstable and, of all forms of vitamin C, causes the most skin irritation.
the breakdown
Ascorbyl palmitate
the good: Acorbyl palmitate is a stable and less irritating form of vitamin C that can help improve the occurrence of hyperpigmentation, minimize the signs of aging, and aid in collagen production.
not so good: Studies have shown that ascorbyl palmate, as well as many other forms of vitamin C, are not used as effectively or well by the skin as L-ascorbic acid.
For whom is that? All skin types except those identified as having an allergy.
Synergetic ingredients: Works well with most ingredients
Keep an eye on: Pay attention to which vitamin C ingredient is used in your product.
What Are The Benefits Of Ascorbyl Palmitate?
In cosmetics and personal care products, ascorbyl palmitate acts as an antioxidant that can protect the skin from free radicals, stimulate collagen production and reduce hyperpigmentation.
Ascorbyl palmitate
Ascorbyl palmitate has a vitamin C activity roughly equivalent to that of L-ascorbic acid. However, because ascorbyl palmitate is fat-soluble, it can penetrate the skin better than L-ascorbic acid and other water-soluble forms of vitamin C.
Unlike L-ascorbic acid, it is not easily broken down in water-based formulas. The optimal pH of formulations containing ascorbyl palmitate is 5.5 natural pH of the skin. This is a less irritating alternative to other vitamin C serums.
antioxidant
Ascorbyl palmitate acts as a antioxidantThat means it is able to protect the skin from free radicals.
Free radicals are caused by external factors such as UV light, smoking, diet and pollution. Vitamin C helps neutralize the free radical imbalance through a process of electron transfer or donation. This is important because the harmful effects of free radicals can damage the DNA in your cells, cell membranes, and cellular proteins, including collagen.
When the collagen in the skin is damaged, signs of premature aging such as wrinkles, lines, and sagging skin can appear. As a result, ascorbyl palmitate’s ability to protect collagen makes it an ideal ingredient in anti-aging skin care products.
Hyperpigmentation
Ascorbyl palmitate is also used to help treat hyperpigmentation and the appearance of dark spots on the skin.
Ascorbyl palmitate in the form of L-ascorbic acid interacts with copper ions at tyrosinase-active sites and inhibits the action of the enzyme tyrosinase, the main enzyme responsible for converting tyrosine into tyrosinase Melaninthereby reducing the formation of melanin. In simpler terms, it reduces the uneven distribution of the melanin pigment, or the molecule that is responsible for creating color in the skin. By decreasing the synthesis of melanin, the appearance of dark spots will decrease.
However, it is important to always remember to wear sunscreen when treating Hyperpigmentation. This is important for two main reasons. The first is that the sun can make hyperpigmentation worse. The second is that products that aid in the treatment of hyperpigmentation can often increase the skin’s sensitivity to UV damage. This includes products like retinol and retinoids.
Collagen
Ascorbyl palmitate also improves skin elasticity and reduces wrinkles by supporting collagen synthesis. Suzan Obagi, Assistant Professor of Dermatology at the University of Pittsburghexplained Scientific AmericanAfter the age of 20, a person produces about 1 percent less collagen in their skin each year. As a result, the skin becomes thinner and more fragile as it ages. Therefore, by increasing collagen production, ascorbyl palmitate can help keep the skin strong, firm, and less prone to wrinkling.
Vitamin C acts as a cofactor or auxiliary molecule in the body’s natural collagen formation process. Studies have examined the ability of L-ascorbic acid to crosslink and stabilize collagen fibers.
Vitamin C has also been studied for its involvement in the production of a molecule called procollagen mRNA. This molecule signals the production of collagen and is responsible for signaling to the cell that collagen is needed. While several studies support the involvement of vitamin C in the processes that produce collagen, it is currently being investigated whether skin care products containing vitamin C have significant effects on improving the apparent firmness and elasticity of the skin.
Does ascorbyl palmitate work as well as other vitamin C ingredients?
The type of vitamin C often varies between formulations. As a source of Vitamin C, L-ascorbic acid is the most researched source and the source that has shown the greatest benefit to the body.
Other forms of synthetic vitamin C. used in skin care, such as ascorbyl palmitate, mineral ascorbate, calcium ascorbate, Magnesium ascorbateor tetrahexyl decyl ascorbate can have a significant impact on the effectiveness of the product.
Studies have shown that most vitamin C products that don’t use L-ascorbic acid tend to do so less strong and less well absorbed by the skin.
Studies have shown that tetrahexyl decyl ascorbate could be equal to L-ascorbic acid in terms of potency. Tetrahexyl decyl ascorbate is an oil-soluble form of vitamin C that works alongside other products such as retinol. In a review by the Review of cosmetic ingredientsThere is evidence that tetrahexyl decyl ascorbate in solution is more stable, less irritating, and able to penetrate deeper into the skin, making it a promising vitamin C treatment.
Is ascorbyl palmitate vegan?
Ascorbyl palmitate is a vegan ingredient. It is derived from ascorbic acid and palmitic acid. Palmitic acid is largely obtained from plant sources as it is the cheapest form of manufacture.
However, it can also be made from animal products. For this reason, it is always best to check with the brand you are planning to buy to see if their source is vegan.
Is Ascorbyl Palmitate Safe?
The security of Ascorbyl palmitate was rated by the Panel of Experts for the Review of Cosmetic Ingredients, a group responsible for independently evaluating the safety and effectiveness of skin care and cosmetic ingredients.
In their review, the panel of experts examined the available data on ascorbyl palmitate and found that it does not cause skin irritation or sensitization. The panel of experts reviewed the scientific data and concluded that this ingredient is safe for use in cosmetic and skin care products.
References:
CIR, 1999. “Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Ascorbyl Palmitate, Ascorbyl Dipalmitate, Ascorbyl Stearate, Erythorbic Acid, and Sodium Erythorbate”, International Journal of Toxicology.
Al-Niaimi F, Chiang NYZ. Topical Vitamin C and the Skin: Mechanisms of Action and Clinical Uses. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2017; 10 (7): 14-17.
