Style is for everybody so why am I nonetheless downloading runway appears to be like for “males” or “girls”?

For a person interested in fashion, there is nothing more exciting than imagining and planning their future wardrobe based on emerging runway trends. Also, there’s nothing as annoying as feeling discouraged by clothes you’ve noticed because, for some reason, you discover they weren’t made for you.

As an editor, it is frustrating to see season after season how designers refuse to recognize people of different body types, abilities, ethnicities, races, and genders on the catwalk. It makes you want to turn away from an industry that seems to reflect inconsistency through its values. But more than that, it makes you want to express yourself. Especially for the marginalized communities who view certain brands as out of reach or taboo, not just because they or they don’t wear the clothes on the catwalk, but basically because a collection is labeled (and that’s) what we see first! ).

“No color, fabric or cut is gender specific.”

Even before the show-goers hear the music hammering and see the lights go out before a presentation to set the mood, they are greeted with notes in their seats that can do one of two things: speak to everyone or specifically to the customer define. Before I know which looks I will see from a fashion house when I click into a press release, I often see two different links: “download menswear” or “download menswear”. That alone rules out a whole population of people who do not identify as women or men, and also speaks in favor of the antiquated notion that gender identity should influence clothing preference in the first place. Words alone are so powerful and they can be so divisive.

For this reason I still admire Stoney Michelli Love’s mission statement for Stuzo Clothing: “Our pieces are gender-free, as we call them, because the clothes have no organs at the last check.” It corresponds to the perspective and the goal of the chromate designer Becca McCharen-Tran as creator. Becca launched a full line of swimwear for transsexual, non-binary and queer people for Spring / Summer 2022, telling me, “Garments are inherently gender neutral as they are just objects … It’s important that people realize that no color or fabric “or cut is gender specific.”

Of course, casting comes into play. Who is wearing these clothes when they are first introduced to us? The season’s diversity report for the New York Fashion Week fashion spot says that transgender and non-binary model appearances accounted for 2.4 percent of castings in spring / summer 2022. The total number was 30 performing on catwalks like The Blonds, Prabal Gurung, Collina Strada. to be seen were Moschino, Batsheva, Gabriela Hearst, Jonathan Simkhai and Chromat of course, including a drag queen and an intersex model. That’s an increase compared to the six transgender or non-binary models at NYFW in Fall 2021, but it’s still daunting considering that the following European shows tend to be even less inclusive historically.

Ultimately, designers will win if they show how a skirt – or any piece of clothing – can be worn by anyone, rather than just a specific type of person, changing the narrow definitions of gender we’ve seen on the runway . The labels ahead of us understand this simple idea and approach design through a gender neutral lens, so I’m here to celebrate it. We have to make brands visible that look beyond the binary in order to extend representation into the future.

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