Is ascorbyl glucoside actually as efficient as different types of vitamin C?

Ascorbyl glucoside is a form of vitamin C that is used in skin care products. In contrast to L-ascorbic acid, the naturally occurring form of vitamin C, ascorbyl glucoside in combination with glucose is a stable form of vitamin C. L-ascorbic acid is a notoriously unstable form of vitamin C that often breaks down when exposed to air and sunlight. While L-ascorbic acid can be stabilized with ferulic acid and antioxidants, it presents many difficulties in formulation.

Ascorbyl glucoside was educated for its superior stability and penetration ability compared to L-ascorbic acid. While ascorbyl glucoside is thought to break down to ascorbic acid when absorbed into the skin, there is little evidence as to how well it works.

Vitamin C is used to improve the appearance of the skin and possibly reduce pigmentation and dullness. Some studies have shown that vitamin C can also help support collagen production and inflammation.

the breakdown

Ascorbyl glucoside

the good: Ascorbyl glucoside is a highly stable form of vitamin C that can help improve the appearance of dull or pigmented skin.

not that good: There is limited research to suggest that ascorbyl glucoside is converted to a form of vitamin C that the skin can use effectively.

For whom is that? All skin types except those identified as having an allergy.

Synergetic ingredients: Works well with most ingredients.

Keep an eye on: Ascorbyl glucoside is often used in formulations with other key ingredients such as niacinamide because it does not have the stability problems that L-ascorbic acid does.

What Are The Benefits Of Ascorbyl Glucoside?

Vitamin C has many studied skin benefits such as: Decrease the visibility of pigmentation, aid collagen production, may be involved in inflammation, decrease the effects of the sun on the skin, and maintain the integrity of the skin barrier.

However, studies show that most forms of vitamin C other than L-ascorbic acid do not have the same benefits on the skin. This can include ascorbyl glucoside. The benefits of vitamin C are discussed below. Note, however, that these are considered to be L-ascorbic acid benefits. Ascorbyl glucoside is also considered a gentler and less potent form of vitamin C, so it can be a good alternative if you have sensitive or irritated skin.

antioxidant
Vitamin C is an antioxidant that can help reduce free radical damage. Environmental factors such as solar radiation, UVA and UVB, pollution, smoking and diet can put the skin in a state of oxidative stress. Oxidative stress creates an imbalance in the concentration of molecules known as free radicals.

Free radicals can build up and cause an imbalance. This imbalance has been examined for its association with many diseases and its role in the aging process. As an antioxidant, vitamin C is believed to reduce the effects of oxidative stress by neutralizing the free radical molecules and rebalancing their levels in the body. This can also help minimize the harmful damage caused by the sun.

Collagen
Collagen production decreases with age. From the age of 20, the amount of collagen produced is reduced by 1% per year.

Vitamin C acts as a cofactor or helper molecule in the body’s natural collagen formation process. Studies have examined the ability of L-ascorbic acid to cross-link and stabilize collagen fibers. While several studies support the involvement of vitamin C in the processes that produce collagen, it is currently being investigated whether skin care products containing vitamin C have significant effects on improving the apparent firmness and elasticity of the skin. This effect also depends strongly on the concentration, the type of vitamin C and the frequency of use.

Pigmentation and L-ascorbic acid
Pigmentation occurs on the surface of the skin for a variety of internal and external reasons. These can range from pregnancy or melasma, hormonal imbalance and sun damage to genetic predispositions, injuries or inflammation. Melanin is the molecule responsible for skin color or pigment, and the uneven production of melanin leads to areas of pigmentation on the surface.

Vitamin C can reduce the visibility of pigmentation by blocking the enzyme responsible for making melanin in the skin.

It is important to use sunscreens with vitamin C products to avoid further pigmentation from the sun.

inflammation
Inflammation in the skin is common, but some people experience it on a daily basis. Conditions like acne, psoriasis, rosacea, and eczema can cause chronic inflammation of the skin.

Vitamin C is believed to inhibit a molecule that activates pro-inflammatory cytokines. Cytokines are involved in immunity and help heal the inflammatory response in the body – think about healthy wound healing. In conditions where the skin is chronically inflamed, the cytokines react inappropriately and often work at overdrive. Topical vitamin C products are currently being studied for their effects on inflammation, wound healing, and post-inflammatory pigmentation.

Skin Barrier Integrity
The skin barrier encompasses the outermost layers of the skin and is essential for maintaining a healthy, clear complexion. It is responsible for protecting the deeper layers of the skin from damage, allergens, bacteria and moisture loss. If problems with the skin barrier occur, this can indicate conditions such as neurodermatitis or eczema.

Vitamin C has been used in combination with other skin care ingredients and dermatological therapies to treat diseases that affect the skin barrier. Vitamin C is believed to help maintain the skin’s barrier by improving the ability of keratinocytes. Keratinocytes are a type of skin cell that produces keratin. Vitamin C can help specialize the function of keratinocytes.

What should you consider when choosing a vitamin C product?

The most important things to note When looking for a vitamin C product, focus is on Stability, and type of vitamin C.

The type of vitamin C often varies between formulations. As a source of Vitamin C, L-ascorbic acid is the most well-researched source and the source that has shown the greatest benefit to the body. Other forms of synthetic vitamin C used in skin care are mineral ascorbates, calcium ascorbate, magnesium ascorbate, ascorbyl palmitate or tetrahexyl decyl ascorbate, and of course, ascorbyl glucoside. The type of vitamin C and the type of product can have a significant impact on the effectiveness of the product.

As for ascorbyl glucoside, research does not strongly suggest that it is converted to L-ascorbic acid in any significant amount. However, it’s considered gentler and more water-soluble, meaning it can be used with a wider variety of other ingredients and is a more stable form of vitamin C.

Is Ascorbyl Glucoside Safe?

The Expert panel for the review of cosmetic ingredients, A group responsible for evaluating the safety of skin care and cosmetic ingredients reviewed the research Ascorbyl glucoside. The panel of experts concluded that ascorbyl glucoside is safe for its current use and at the current concentrations in which it is used.

References:
Pullar JM, Carr AC, Vissers MCM. The role of vitamin C in skin health. Nutrient. 2017; 9 (8): 866. Published 2017 Aug 12.

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