If you’re like most people, you believe sunscreen protects you from sunburn, skin damage, and even skin cancer down the road.
You pick something labeled “broad spectrum” or “SPF 50” and figure you’re covered.
But what if you’ve been deceived?
A new study is turning heads, and not in a good way. The results showed that three-quarters of sunscreens on the market don’t provide the protection they claim. Worse still, U.S. sunscreens may not meet the same safety and effectiveness standards used in other parts of the world, particularly in Europe.
So, what are you supposed to do to protect your skin?
Sunscreen Protects You, But Only If It’s Formulated Right
In a recent peer-reviewed study published in the Photodermatology, Photoimmunology & Photomedicine journal, researchers examined 51 sunscreen products for sale in the U.S. with SPF values from 15 to 110. They were all labeled as providing broad-spectrum protection and were tested using a commercial laboratory. Researchers wanted to see if they protected against both UVA and UVB rays, which is something that people expect a “broad-spectrum” sunscreen to do.
UVB rays are the ones that cause visible sunburns. UVA rays go even deeper and are strongly linked to premature aging, wrinkles, and skin cancer.
Here’s the problem: SPF values from laboratory-measured UV absorption and computer modeling were, on average, just 59 and 42 percent of the labeled SPF. Most of the products provided significantly lower UVA protection, with an average UVA protection factor of only 24 percent of the labeled SPF.
In other words, the sunscreens did a good job of protecting against UVB rays, which means they would likely help protect against sunburn. Where they fell short is in safeguarding from the deeper-penetrating UVA rays. That means that even if you use these sunscreens regularly, you still may be at risk for premature aging and skin cancer in the future.
Furthermore, the researchers found that only 35 percent of the products tested met the EU standard for sunscreen, which is stricter regarding UVA protection compared to the U.S. standard. Most sunscreens—94 percent—would pass the current U.S. standard, but would be too weak to qualify for the EU standard because they don’t filter UVA rays effectively enough.
How Are Sunscreens Regulated in the U.S.?
According to the Environmental Working Group (EWG), which conducted this study, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) regulates sunscreens as non-prescription drugs, meaning new UV filter ingredients must undergo the same lengthy review process as pharmaceutical drugs.
Manufacturers have been seeking to use new sunscreen chemicals approved in the EU, but because they lack sufficient safety testing as required by the FDA, they are unable to do so. Indeed, the FDA hasn’t approved a new sunscreen filter since 1996.
The FDA wants to ensure that any new sunscreens are safe for the public, but the delay in approving these ingredients means that consumers are left with fewer choices when it comes to sunscreen products. The FDA proposed rules to strengthen the UVA protection offered by U.S. sunscreens in 2019, but has not yet finalized the changes, so they haven’t taken effect.
The EU, on the other hand, regulates sunscreens as cosmetics, which allows for more flexibility in the use of ingredients. The EU has approved 34 UV filters for use in sunscreens, compared to only 16 in the U.S.
In a study evaluating the UV protection of four U.S. sunscreens compared to four EU sunscreens—all with an SPF value of 50 or more—the results showed that U.S. sunscreens allowed, on average, three times more UVA rays to pass through to the skin than the EU sunscreens did.
Another study comparing sunscreens found that 19 of the 20 sunscreens tested met the U.S. requirements, but only 11 met the EU requirements.
What You Really Need in a Sunscreen that Protects You
The EWG has been sounding the alarm about U.S. sunscreen standards for years. Their annual Sunscreen Guide reviews hundreds of products. You can find their recommendations here, which can help you determine the best sunscreen to use.
In addition to reviewing their list, look for the following characteristics when shopping for sunscreen.
Broad-Spectrum Protection
This label is supposed to mean that the product protects from both UVA and UVB rays. But because of weak U.S. regulations, not all broad-spectrum products are created equal. Look for those that specifically mention high UVA protection or have been reviewed by trusted resources, such as the EWG.
Zinc Oxide or Titanium Dioxide
These mineral sunscreens are among the most effective and safest options for UVA protection. They sit on top of the skin and reflect rays away rather than absorbing them and then trying to disarm them, as many chemical sunscreens do. Many dermatologists—and we here at CV Skinlabs!—recommend these ingredients for sensitive skin and long-term use.
The FDA also notes that they consider only these two active ingredients safe and effective. The agency has approved other non-mineral active ingredients, but lacks sufficient data to determine their safety.
Water Resistance
Especially if you’re going to be swimming or sweating, make sure your sunscreen is water resistant. Otherwise, it may wash off quickly, leaving you exposed.
High SPF
SPF 30 is considered the minimum, but don’t be fooled into thinking that SPF 100 is twice as effective as SPF 50. Once you go above SPF 50, the difference in protection becomes pretty small. What matters more is how often you reapply. Every two hours is a good rule of thumb.
Be Picky, Because Your Sunscreen Should Protect You!
As the research reveals, not all sunscreens provide the same level of protection. Many Americans have been relying on products that give a false sense of security. Even if you don’t burn, UVA rays can silently damage your skin, leading to wrinkles, age spots, and an increased risk of cancer later on.
With a little extra research, you can find those that will keep your skin safe. Pause, read the ingredients, and check for zinc oxide. Use the EWG guide if you like. That’s the best way to avoid sunburn today and serious health issues tomorrow.
What sunscreen do you use?
Featured image by Mikhail Nilov via Pexels.