Little Lhasa: How Tibetans Maintain Their Identity in Majnu Ka Tilla

What was once a designated settlement for Tibetans, characterized by damp alleys and queues of people waiting to collect water from the pump, has now been transformed into a Tibetan cultural center filled with restaurants, hotels, shops and stalls Tibetan refugees who coexist and earn a living for themselves.

At the beginning of the 1950s, the Dalai Lama and numerous Tibetan refugees were brought to safety asylum by the Government of India to set up rehabilitation settlements for them in the country. According to the research article titled “Socioeconomic and Cultural Characteristics of Tibetan Migrants: A Case Study from New Aruna Nagar (Majnu Ka Tilla), Delhi“The area covers 12 blocks and around 350 registered families live there.

The story of the gradual development of Majnu Ka Tilla is the story of the resilience and adaptability of Tibetans in a land far from home. In the words of Thubten Samphel in his book “Falling through the roof“Majnu Ka Tilla is a result of the injustice of history.”

Shared beliefs and shared desires

Tenzin Wangdue, who runs a stall in the area selling beads and items considered sacred by Tibetans, mentioned the small ways they keep their Tibetan culture alive through their entrepreneurial ventures, saying: “We believe Glad we have established one.” Little Lhasa here. Far from our homeland, we try to stay connected and integrated by decorating our stalls, shops and homes with Tibetan flags, considered auspicious and bringing good luck, and by selling items that symbolize our faith, such as these beads . These are the only things we can hold on to as a reminder of who we are and where we come from.”

Source: ABP

When asked about the Dalai Lama’s pictures on store doors, he replied, “He was our guiding star.” We have great respect and awe for him. “Little Lhasa cannot be complete without the presence (in the spirit) of our leader.”

Commenting on the relevance of the “Free Tibet” and “Students for a Free Tibet” posters that were often seen on walls, Pema Lhamu, speaking to FII, which was selling woolen goods at a stall, said: “These are small things , which our collective conveys.” Desire for an independent nation, free from the shackles of any hardship. It is a way to express our sense of “we”. “After all, it is our common goals that unite us.”

Every year, Tibetans living in the area protest directly in front of the Chinese Embassy to express their opposition to the Chinese occupation of Tibet.

Another way Tibetans attempt to preserve their cultural symbols, shared meanings and practices is through the sale of Tibetan souvenirs, namely small yak artifacts, beads with religious significance, and handmade Tibetan jewelry. This attempt becomes clear when you discover the symbol of the Nor Yak Café – the Tibetan yak.

According to the owner of a shop called NAMSA*, “Festivals are celebrated within the limits of the colony and in addition to Holi and Diwali, Tibetan New Year (Losar) is also celebrated with great excitement even within the limits of the colony.” Followed by visit to the monastery. This illustrates how members of the community maintain a sense of group and belonging and celebrate celebrations together that integrate them. In addition, he said, “MKT has also become a stopover for Buddhists traveling to see the Dalai Lama.”

Interacting with cultures other than one’s own while preserving one’s own essence

Identities are complex and overlapping. They are never static, but constantly evolving. They come into contact with external influences that do not undermine their being, but rather reinforce it. When Dorjee, who sells hot dogs at a stall, was asked if he would like to decorate the stall with Tibetan flags while selling American hot dogs, he said: “It’s a way to do something different amidst the many cafes that are springing up while still retaining part of my identity.’

Source: News18

Other signs of Tibetan entrepreneurs’ interaction with non-Tibetan cultures include the sale of Korean foods such as kimchi as well as Tibetan delicacies. This can be perceived as a way in which markers of Tibetan identity merge with aspects of cultures other than their own to expand their ventures, attracting more customers by catering to their preferences, reflecting how their identity as Tibetans Intertwined with their identity as a Tibetan is an entrepreneur.

For Sanchi, a visitor, “It is very refreshing to see that the clothing showroom called Mapcha promotes its garments using Tibetan rather than Western models, which could be interpreted as a way to assert Tibetan identity.”

On the other hand, Saloni, a Delhi University passer-by who visited Majnu Ka Tilla with her friends after about six years, claimed: “The quaint cafes coming up may spoil the essence of the place as a predominantly Tibetan center.” I can’t recognize the woman who used to make lapels at a roadside stall. This space is now used by a small stall selling kimchi and bibimpap. I like that the Lhasa Café’s board is carved from Tibetan wood and ‘Welcome’ is written in both Tibetan and English.”

Photos of Tibetan models supporting the garments sold by Mapcha, a store in Majnu Ka Tilla/ Photo by: Syeda Shua Zaidi

Thinley Dhondup, the owner of Norwang Café, describes the interior design as “a fusion of Greek aesthetics and Tibetan essence”. With the white and blue tones of Santorini we hope to appeal to the younger population. “Our target audience is primarily students and we hope to make the café attractive to them by serving Italian and Chinese dishes alongside Tibetan dishes.”

A taste of Tibet

For are handmade and give an impression of Tibetan craftsmanship. In her words: “What’s special about them is that the wool used to be hand-spun and dyed with vegetable dyes by women in the higher elevations of Tibet.” “Women would weave a carpet for months to decorate their new homes after marriage.”

When asked about the symbolism of each color in the Tibetan flag, she explained: “The colors symbolize elements of the earth and beyond – red means fire, white means the wind, yellow is the color of the earth, green means water and blue means.” the space and the sky.’

For Z*: “The area is a mini version of our houses.” Even though the inner streets are run down and some walls are falling down, there is no government “makeover” of the market, it is still the hustle and bustle and the small lively corners that make it For him, the market can be compared to a living organism, with every stall and every restaurant being the organs of the organism and contributing to the smooth functioning of the market.

New Aruna Nagar treasurer Rinzin Wangmo expressed the desire for “better infrastructure in the colony as it gradually transforms into a food hub”. If the government plans to introduce a development program, it should actually address the problems on the ground, such as permitting, repairing the walls and pavements, and beautifying the buildings. The authorities concerned have been requested from our side to restore our cultural essence.”

Cooperation and coexistence: a path for Tibetans

Does Tibetan residents’ identity as entrepreneurs overwhelm their sense of belonging as a community, leading to declining social integration, or does it serve as another source of shared identity, not only as refugees but also as entrepreneurs?

Source: HerZindagi

It can be argued that by operating businesses such as stalls and restaurants in the market, the Tibetan refugees are characterized by a new form of solidarity, involving both a degree of cooperation and competition, adding another element to their sense of community where they may not have shared experiences, but shared values ​​and beliefs persist in cultural traditions, holding the community together while contributing to the functioning of the market.

It should be noted that the report does not purport to be general, all-inclusive or exhaustive. It is important to recognize that results are relative, specific to a limited number of people for a given period of time, and may change as time and context change.

*Names have been changed to protect identities