The antique and estate jewelry world is continually growing, both in terms of people selling and buying. It is an exciting time and I’ve been a part of it all since 2008. I have seen trends come and go, sellers come and go…I’ve been to more trade shows than I can count. Most importantly, I’ve been here for every record-setting value gold has hit. I’ve felt both the fear and amazement that comes with it. The latest high being in October of 2024 was really nuts, for lack of a better word. I’ve never seen such a persistent surge day after day.
As an owner of a fine jewelry business, it is hard to tell if this is a good thing or a bad thing. Of course, I had to adjust pricing on my website in the fall but then I had to do it again in November too! It was tough to see the cost of goods soar but also made me feel confident that I am selling a commodity that has a definite value. I try not to overuse the word investment, but truly – gold jewelry is an investment!
Which is why I believe this industry continues to grow, with more and more people wanting to get involved in the selling aspect. Like with anything, I’ve seen both positive and negative with this newfound growth. I wanted to make sure you as a buyer are aware and are buying from someone who is reputable, honest and has credibility. We’ve beckoned upon a new era of self-taught professionals who think they can teach themselves the ins and outs of the fine jewelry world. There’s no YouTube video trade-off for real life experiences and dealings in the industry, that’s for sure.
Here are a few things to keep in mind when buying from a seller on social media or a website:
Buying vintage or antique chains: I’ve seen a lot of people recommending buying secondhand when purchasing chains or necklaces. I find this category the most room for error in terms of the condition the piece can potentially be in. Chains are often well-loved and therefore a secondhand piece can have faults that you wouldn’t see unless you looked under a microscope or loupe. Links can be worn out, where the gold is so worn away that one small tug could obliterate it. I’ve purchased chains off eBay that were so dirty and worn, it was not worth buying. I would make sure you’re buying from a seller that cleans each piece thoroughly, someone who has a microscope and checks/guarantees their pieces they sell. Sometimes I think buying new chains rather than vintage is the way to go in terms of this category of jewelry.
Buying vintage or antique diamond jewelry: it is important to buy from someone who is certified in diamonds from GIA, which means having a certificate from GIA and is a Diamonds Graduate. A Graduate Gemologist (the full certificate) is even better and actually what I would prefer. It is also important that who you’re buying from can calculate a total carat weight accurately – if you ask how many carats are in a specific piece you’re interested in buying and the seller has no clue how to measure and calculate that, that is a red flag. And yes, this happens all the time.
Buying fine gold jewelry: I’ve said this before, but after 16 years in the industry I’ve seen a lot! I’ve seen “solid” gold pieces actually are a very thin layer of gold over top of a weird clay-like substance…I’ve seen reputable dealers sell pieces that are gold-plated, dealers who own very expensive XRF guns to test gold still making mistakes, dealers who solely rely on gold acid-testing make mistakes…the bottom line is that people make mistakes!! It is good to have other eyes on things, which is why I like buying from the dealers that I’ve been working with for years. I know they’ve been in the industry longer than I have, so not only do I have their expertise but then mine – and yes, I’ve caught mistakes on their end and always bring it to their attention and talk things through. It is great learning for both parties.
Determining price: I feel like this needs to be said a hundred times, but price is not solely based on gram weight, PERIOD. But yes, it is a good question to ask and can help you put into perspective the overall size and heft of a piece. There are lots of factors when determining a price, I would say the weight is probably the first basis and area to assess to determine a price…and then add in rarity, intricacy, gemstone values, designer premiums, etc.
To shop my pieces, check out shopGemGossip.com