While all these ingredients can make the lashes appear thicker and lusher over time, “the only ingredient with several clinical studies supporting its use in eyelash growth is bimatoprost, a prostaglandin analog,” Dr. Fowler says. “Bimatoprost 0.03% solution, also known as Latisse, is the only treatment that is FDA-approved to grow eyelashes. Bimatoprost works by increasing the time that the lash spends in its growth phase, leading to longer, thicker, and darker lashes.”
While Latisse is available by prescription, some over-the-counter lash-growth serums do contain prostaglandin analogs. “However, unlike Latisse, these [other prostaglandin-analog serums] are not supported by robust clinical studies and are lacking in safety data,” Dr. Fowler says. “The use of prostaglandin analogs in eyelash serums can often lead to side effects, so I recommend that patients approach these over-the-counter serums containing prostaglandin analogs with caution.” When in doubt, speak to your physician, and start with a prostaglandin-free option from the list above.
Do eyelash growth serums really work?
“The serums do work—if you use them correctly,” Dr. Fowler says. Hear that? Instructions are required reading, and it helps to settle in for the long haul, too. Most of the serums start to show visible results after at least three months of consistent use. “Maintenance is another important factor to consider because once you stop using the serum, your lashes will eventually return to their original state.” Dr. Engleman says. She also says that most eyelash growth serums cannot regenerate lashes that have been permanently lost or severely damaged. Instead, they work by strengthening the existing lash follicles and prolonging the anagen, or growth, phase, of the hairs.
What oil makes your eyelashes grow?
While rosemary and castor oils have been the subject of hair growth buzz, they can’t deliver eyelash miracles. “There are no clinical studies indicating that botanical oils promote growth or lengthening of the eyelashes,” Dr. Fowler says. “Instead, they work mainly to condition and hydrate, which can lead to less breakage and stronger lashes that appear thicker and fuller.” In over-the-counter eyelash growth serums, it’s common to spot the aforementioned ingredients along with almond oil and jojoba oil. “Just beware that these botanical oils can lead to allergic contact dermatitis or irritation, so use them with caution,” Dr. Fowler says. And again, don’t be afraid to consult with your physician.
Meet the Experts
- Rishi Chopra, MD, board-certified dermatologist at UnionDerm in New York City and The Hamptons
- Dendy Engelman, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York, New York
- Emilie Fowler, MD, board-certified dermatologist in New York, New York
- Rachel Nazarian, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York, NY
- Dendy Engelman, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York, New York
- Anil Shah, MD, a board-certified facial plastic surgeon in Chicago, IL
- Lana Kashlan, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in Dubai and Chicago, IL
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When Allure tests a product, our editors look at it from every angle in an effort to best serve you. We review ingredients, scrutinize brand claims, and, when necessary, examine peer-reviewed scientific and medical studies. In addition to testing each and every product that’s included in each and every review, we rely on experts who shape their fields, including dermatology, cosmetic chemistry, and medicine, to help us vet the ingredients and formulas.